Shank extractions ...

Dave Nereson dnereson@dim.com
Thu, 13 Mar 2003 05:03:40 -0700


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tune4u@earthlink.net>
To: "Pianotech@Ptg.Org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 4:32 PM
Subject: Shank extractions ...


> I'd appreciate hearing your ideas for digging out the remains of a shank
> that has broken off right next to the hammer molding or right next to the
> butt.
> 
> In the past, I've just picked at the stub with an awl and dug it out with a
> little screwdriver.  Short of having a sophisticated boring guide set-up
> (and knowing the exact shaft angles) how can this be done better then my
> "method?"
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Alan Barnard
> Salem, MO
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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On page 45 of the Schaff catalog, see items no. 170, 192, and 167.  All I've ever used is the 167.  It can be used on the butt or the hammer moulding -- well, not angled hammers; I do those by eye with a brad point bit that fits the combination handle.  After cutting or filing the stub flush with the wood, I use an awl or a pencil to make a dot in the center of the shank stub so when I put the boring guide on, I can sight down the hole and see if I've got it located correctly.  I use a brad point bit with a hex end that fits my power screwdriver.  I think Home Depot even has these bits now.  Usually you can hear the speed of the driver change when it's done drilling out the remainder of the shank and is just spinning in the hole.  
    The other methods mentioned are just as good or better.
    --Dave Nereson, RPT, Denver 


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