I agree you can have (with experience) a good idea about the live ness of the string/board function, but it sometime does not show all. I noticed pianos that seem to have a short sustain when plucked (short sustain to me mean short full first part of tone ), and after good regulation that deliver the utmost power to the strings, the tone became way fuller and longer. That is because some instruments need more power to tone well. Voicing for more sustain usually mean allowing more of the hammer mass to be active under the stroke, giving more power by a little low needling, then using that stronger impulse and cutting the extraneous attack noise while adding resilience to the shoulders with higher needling. I've seen Abel hammers need to be needled a lot near the strike, but then the tone is sometime too thin because the felt is often too much pressed and don't move all along. Then the transmission is not full, you have to needle more (lower), and compact back the hammer as David say. An easy method is to play firmly the hammer(s) against the voicing block, this have the advantage that you can hear the strike of the hammer on the wood, and know if it is ok yet with that "tone". Think of it as playing a percussive instrument and find a good sounding voicing block for that. I'd be cautious about pounding on the hammer with something hard as a hammer the resilience is more conserved if we hit it with something lighter, or if we knock the hammer against something hard. It is also necessary to pound on the shoulders after the first needling, to allow the felt to even all around. I do it as I go , with the back of the voicing block, backed with a little sandpaper. To have an idea of the harness remaining in the low hammer, one can play it with the sustain pedal engaged, it helps, may be because the ear is not disturbed by the attack sound. The biggest problem when we learn to voice new hammers is to understand how to needle with force even when needling near the crown, we have to develop a feel for it, unfortunately, needling precaution new hammers doe's not work, because we need to displace the tension or transform compression into tension. It is often necessary to needle more than once at the same place till something moves. Nowadays, first we may recognize an optimum strike and an optimum regulation, then we will avoid to voice in "compensation mode", using too much energy of the hammer to correct problems that lie elsewhere (particularly with grand pianos). Hope that helps Best Regards Isaac OLEG Entretien et réparation de pianos. PianoTech 17 rue de Choisy 94400 VITRY sur SEINE FRANCE tel : 033 01 47 18 06 98 fax : 033 01 47 18 06 90 cell: 06 60 42 58 77 > -----Message d'origine----- > De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org > [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la > part de Z! Reinhardt > Envoyé : samedi 15 mars 2003 19:14 > À : Pianotech > Objet : Re: Downbearing and Tone > > > Is it the > : piano, or is this chracteristic of the hammers? > : Thunk > : > Hold down one key (or lift the damper head) and pluck the > string. Does the > sound fill the room or does it just fall over dead? That > will tell you > whether the hammers are to blame or not. > > Z! Reinhardt RPT > Ann Arbor MI > diskladame@provide.net > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 8:11 AM > Subject: Re: Downbearing and Tone > > > : Abel Encores, > : > have done some shoulder needling but don't want to > : > over do it. > : > : I have also just put some Abel encores on a piano > : which is having problems with very short sustain. I > : followed Wally's needling directions, which improverd > : the sustain some, but not dramatically. Is it the > : piano, or is this chracteristic of the hammers? > : Thunk > : > > > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
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