Terry, I use animal glue (unprepared hide glue) to glue all felt and leather. As Gordon has said, hide glue is effected by humidity, it is advantagiuos to use a glue that is more stable for wood joints. However I am a big believer in using animal glue because when used at the right consistency it does not soak into felt, dry quickly, lasts the life of the felt and can be easly removed when next time the piano has to be rebuilt/repaired. As for mutton fat, the true mutton fat does not have any salt, or acids that can harm metals. True mutton fat is obtained by rendering down the fat from around the kidneys of a sheep, the best fat comes from prize winning rams. Verdigris on centrepins does not come from mutton fat, it is a natural effect of brass that has been polished by the felt bushing and then let sit in a humid climate. Mutton fat is or should never be used on centrepins. If copious amounts of mutton fat is applied to metal parts, then you will get side affects. The more use of unnatural man made products in every day life can cause problems in the future. Kerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 12:25 AM Subject: Re: Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions > Thanks for the input Kerry. A couple comments. > > Regarding hide or Titebond. I know this has been gone over a billion times, but on this action several jack flanges had been repaired with yellow wood glue. The original hide glue came off effortlessly with a little water action - wippens cleaned up perfectly. The wippens that had yellow glue applied (of course I don't know exactly what it was) did soften, but required a fair bit of scraping to thoroughly clean it. I just delight in how easy hide glue is removed. > > Mutton fat! Yikes! Where on earth would I find that? And is that something that will not affect the action cloth on the damper lever, and is that something that can be expected to last for many decades? > > Terry Farrell > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kerry Cooper" <brispiano@optushome.com.au> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 8:46 AM > Subject: Re: Upright Wippen Rebuilding Questions > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I will be installing new jacks and attached flanges. Is it best to simply > > apply hide glue, stick together and let dry? Or are their any significant > > secrets to the process? > > > > You can use hide glue or Tite-bond. > > > > > I will be replacing heel/capstan action cloth. Is hide glue applied over > > the entire cloth/wood surface? Or is it just applied at the forward and back > > ends of the action cloth so that there is no glue between the cloth and > > wooden wippen heel? > > > > Glue is applied only to forward and back ends only. This stops any future > > noise that might arise due to glue soaking into the Box/action cloth. > > > > > The spoons are tarnished a bit. I would rather not replace if I can make > > like new easily. I can simply give them a second or two on the buffing wheel > > and they will be shiny as ever - but what about the surface metal left - > > will it corrode faster than a new spoon? Can I coat the buffed spoon with > > Emrlon (or something like that - thought I had seen it in Schaff catalog for > > coating capstans - couldn't find it again) or something else? > > > > Buff spoons, and light coat of mutton fat. Just a smear to protect from air. > > > > Kerry > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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