Lost my head/Alan

[Joseph Garrett]

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Alan,
You need to make a "Hammer Shank Splicer", as in the attached "scan". To use
it you put a 7/32" hammer shank in the Splicer and, using a thin bladed saw,
cut off the end of the shank. Next, take the "broken shank" and do the same,
sawing off only the least amount possible. Take a "Sweetheart" (trademark)
Straw and cut a length just slightly longer than the length of the splice.
Slide it over the "broken shank", after applying a thin coating of Titebond
to the splice surface. Put a thin coat of Titebond on the new shank splice
area. Slide, (with force), the new shank into the straw, until the two mate.
Let set up. (Takes less than 1/2 hour) Remove the straw. Lightly sand/smooth
the joint. Cut the shank to approximate length, (leave a bit long). Remove
the broken shank stub from the hammer. Install the hammer, matching to it's
neighbors. Let set up. Do appropriate shank trimming. Your there!<G>
I've been using these thingees for many years. They work very well. They, (I
have one for spinet shanks and one for standard shanks), can be made out of
pinblock material and 2 set screws, ("Thumb bolts"). The approximate size
is: 2.5" long, 1.5" wide & 1" thick. Drill the hole slightly larger than
7/32", (or 3/16", if spinet shank jig). Slice the "diagonal", on the band
saw slightly past the depth of the "shank hole", using a THIN blade. Voila'!
I found out about this "jig" from the olde piano supply house "Ford".
Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon)

Been There, Didn't Like It, So I'm Here To Stay! [G}

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