Pleyel Grand with warped front rail.

[Isaac OLEG]

Hello ,
A trick to have an easier bedding time of the (flat underside) front
rail, is to make a small 1/2 ' large lip with an electric plane (and
blades you don't fear about)a few - 2 mm deep is enough.

Often the keybed is warping on these instruments, you could consider
checking it also, it can be planed by hand and you will have less
corection on the key frame then.

If working on the keys (bushings) put them together clamped (from the
sides or any solution you like, while drying, these keys warp a lot
under moisture.

A good wodden rack with some holes right and left to install tuning
pins to hold wood wedges that press the keys together is easy to make,
and can help for polishing the ivories also.



Isaac OLEG

Entretien et reparation de pianos.

PianoTech
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> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la
> part de Roger Jolly
> Envoye : vendredi 23 mai 2003 05:57
> A : Pianotech
> Objet : Re: Pleyel Grand with warped front rail.
>
>
>
> Hi Robin,
>                    You make saw kerfs about every 6" and
> 2/3rds through the
> rail, alternately top and bottom.  Clamp both ends of the
> frame to a solid
> bench and glue in some veneer shims on the top side kerfs.
> Leave the lower
> side kerfs open. The lower kerf should be cut at the crown
> of the warp.
>
> I usually put a few thicknesses of veneer Under the crown
> of the warp
> before clamping, and dry fit the veneer shims, then check
> every thing out
> before gluing them in place.
>
> Ops, just re read your post.  Put the shims under the ends
> of the frame and
> clamp down the centre, same procedure.
>
> Regards Roger
>
>
> At 10:28 PM 5/22/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >        I recently worked on a roughly 100 year old Pleyel
> grand in of
> >all places,(where else but)the French Ambassador's
> residence here in
> >Washington DC.Somewhere along the line it has been restrung and and
> >partially rebuilt.The problem is that the front rail only
> contacts the
> >key bed on the ends.In the middle it is bounceing up and
> down causeing
> >power loss and letoff and after touch proplems unless you
> play pretty
> >hard.There are no adjustable glide bolts either on the key frame or
> >the bed.Sanding the front rail seems like a long and
> possibly futile
> >method.I seem to recall a method of cutting a saw curf in the front
> >rail to help lower the rise in the middle.Is this done
> from the top of
> >the rail,or bottom,or both.Do you shim and glue or just
> leave an open
> >slit in the front rail.I look forward to the lists opinions and
> >experience in this.                       Thanks Robin Olson RPT
> >
> >
> >
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>
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