String 'em Up, Boys

[Richard Moody]

----- Original Message -----
From: <tune4u@earthlink.net>
To: 'Pianotech' <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 1:54 AM
Subject: RE: String 'em Up, Boys


.
>
> The pins on this sucker are under 20 lbs, throughout.

I never sprung for an inch pound torque wrench, so I don't know
what 20 pounds seems like.  However Reblitz says  "less than
six pounds to lower...they are probably too loose."    I assume
the "tuner's torque wrench fitted with a ratchet lever star tip"
is in inch pounds.

>The player guy was in
> a hurry to finish the piano and deliver it "because he was
moving." >He's  gone. It does beg the question: What kind of bozo
and/or con >artist would do  expensive player work on an
instrument that needs >basic piano restoration work, first?"

And maybe the work was shoddy and the player will start to fail
soon after expensive piano restoration is paid for.

>he's already invested much in the
> piano.   The case is already beautifully refurbished.

As in   two hour polish or 40 hour refinishing?


>
> Bass strings sound like they are under a mattress and look like
they've been
> coated with black lacquer, more than just the usual aging gunk.

In old uprights even player pianos it is customary to replace only
the bass strings.  The only gain in replacing treble and tenor
strings IMHO is cosmetic unless the T pins don't respond to
treatment using GARFIELDS.  The Hamilton player probably from 1925
is not that old of an old upright so the upper strings might last
another 35--50 years before breaking from age.



 >I thought putting in No. 4's was the reasonable solution.

Tapping, Garfields, CA are other considerations for the original
tenor-treb pins.    At 20 lbs though I would like to see what
others say on that.



> What I could see of bridges and
> soundboard appeared okay. Hammers have a lot of felt on them, no
deep
> grooves, and don't appear to have ever been filed. But now I'm
wondering  what those little action centers and butt leathers look
like ...

Of course you have to remove the player action to see that.  The
catch leathers wear before the butt leathers usually and that can
easily happen in a player piano.  Then you get to look at the key
bushings check lost motion check action screws for tightness, file
the hammers like you mentioned, you can get to $300 pretty fast
just for two or three routine maintenance procedures for the
piano alone, (tuning maybe included)   It depends on how good a
piano the client desires.


> Maybe I'll show him your email,

OK
I consider this a public forum, but consider it good manners to
let the poster know how you are dispersing it.    I do not think
what I "publish" here, I own. Maybe Piantech does but that is
their concern.
I wish I could send you a tract (your cost $3.00) I have published
on "Care and Consideration for Owners and Those Interested in
Player Pianos",  but I haven't gotten around to that yet.
Judging from reactions from my clients about comments on their
pianos from Piano tech list  I am sure your client would be
interest in comments on his and might be good motivation for going
ahead and having the work done.

> As to the "when I'm in your area" idea,

For a client as you describe, it would be better to find a player
tech in the area.  Check MMD and the local  Yellow Pages.  If one
is not available within 100 miles I should consider applying for
the job as long as it can be done when I am driving through that
area.

>the piano is located in St. Robert,.....
>.....Table Rock (at
> BRANSON--see the stars!),

Hmm relatives on my wife's side own a cabin near Branson and
want us to stay there for a very modest fee.   I wonder if this is
on the way to Dallas?     ---rm


> Where is your home base? If it's Guam or Saskatchewan, I don't
wanna know.

Sask is only a place to email or phone, (so far) and I owe so much
for advice from there I will have to visit in person one of days
in the next year or two.

        I am in South Central South Dakota, and would take I 90
east to south on I 29 I suppose.       ----rm