Yamaha hammers

[Isaac sur Noos]

Drilling in the hammer does not help, you need force when the needles
go in the hammer so the fiber have a chace to break around and move.

Makin holes in extra hard hammers does not work in my experience, but
using more than one jab at the same place till the needles goes in and
then moving a little the voicing tool back and forth move the whole
stuff.

Using one long relatively thick needle works when it is inserted
slowly and with enough force in the underside of the hammer (aiming
for the felt extremity inside the moulding

I believe that the arm and shoulder of anybody is heavy enough to go
there, but the initial break is the harder to obtain, as we tend to
move as for less hard hammers.

The leaded voicing tool is called the "crusher" in france (le
defoncoir)

Good bashing !

Greetings


------------------------------------
PianoTech
Isaac OLEG
accordeur - reparateur - concert
oleg-i@noos.fr
17 rue de Choisy
94400 Vitry sur Seine
tel: 033 01 47 18 06 98
fax: 033 01 47 18 06 90
mobile: 033 06 60 42 58 77
------------------------------------


> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la
> part de David Love
> Envoye : jeudi 6 novembre 2003 16:02
> A : Pianotech
> Objet : Re: Yamaha hammers
>
>
> I've scheduled a major voicing of a Yamaha C7 with quarried
> hammers for
> next week and finally broke down a bought myself a cordless Dremel
> (actually Craftsman $29.99) for the job.  You need to buy a
> 1/32" collett
> to hold the needle.  An extra battery doesn't hurt either.
>
> David Love
> davidlovepianos@earthlink.net
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <A440A@aol.com>
> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Date: 11/6/2003 6:02:29 AM
> > Subject: Re: Yamaha hammers
> >
> > I wrote about needling hard hammers:
> > >   . . . with a single #6 needle that is almost long
> enough to reach the
> > core wood.
> >
> > David asks:
> > > What kind of needle do you use and how do you keep them
> from breaking?
> > Every time I try a length longer than about 5/16", they
> break on me.
> >
> >    I have found that you can't get the needle in, all the
> way, at first.
> So,
> >  I begin softening the shoulder with shallower jabs,
> gradually getting
> full
> > penetration after maybe 15 or so progressively deeper
> needles.  I suppose
> I
> > voice by tactile feel, first.  By now, I know what a
> nicely voiced hammer
> feels
> > like on the shoulders, and prep them accordingly.  (note,
> this is NOT a
> > technique for Steinway hammers that are loaded with lacquer).
> >
> > >   The hammers are so hard that if you begin at the
> upper shoulder, the
> > > tension in them will tear them apart after a while.
> > > Regards,
> > > Ed Foote RPT
> >
> >
> > >>Is that indeed what's happening in a hammer with lots
> of tension --
> like
> > bending a rope sharply, then hacking at the top of the
> bend with a knife,
> > gradually cutting the fibers and making it pull apart?  >>
> >
> > That seems to be an appropriate analogy.  With sufficiently soft
> shoulders,
> > graduated to real hardness under the strike point, the
> hammers hold
> together
> > quite well and respond very sensitively to needles going
> in near the
> strike
> > point.
> > Regards,
> > Ed Foote RPT
> > http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html
> > www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
> >  <A
> HREF="http://artists.mp3s.com/artists/399/six_degrees_of_ton
> ality.html">
> > MP3.com: Six Degrees of Tonality</A>
> > _______________________________________________
> > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>
>
>
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