Glue

[David Love]

I agree with Ron's points.  I've found that to insure a good bond with hide
glue be sure to put glue on both the end of the shank and the hammer head
before assembly.  Don't spin it too many times and work quickly.  I've not
found any glue to be better than hide glue for this particular job.  

David Love
davidlovepianos@earthlink.net


> [Original Message]
> From: Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@cox.net>
> To: <dm.porritt@verizon.net>; Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Date: 11/27/2003 8:29:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Glue
>
>
> >Where can I find some good glue for hammers?  I'm tired of using hot
hide 
> >glue.  It's fussy!  If you use it straight it jells before you get the 
> >hammer in its final position.
>
> Then you're moving too slow.
>
>
> >If you use to much additive it is weak.
>
> I've never used it any way but "straight", so I can't help there.
>
>
> >It gets moldy between uses.
>
> Only if you leave the lid on.
>
>
> >I still get loose hammer heads even when doing it right.
>
> Then something isn't right. The best eliminator of loose heads I've come
up 
> with is a slight countersink bevel at the edge of the hammer bore. After 
> applying glue to both hammer and shank, the bevel funnels glue into the 
> joint instead of scraping it off of the shank as you spin the hammer on.
>
>
> >As far as I can tell none of the current factories use hide glue for 
> >hammers and I don't find loose hammer heads on them.
>
> Steinway does.
>
>
> >Suggestions?
>
> Try thick PVA. Titebond's molding glue (PVA) is adequate for hammers, and 
> almost too thick to get out of the bottle. It's showing up in building 
> supply stores, so it may be available locally. It should get you there
with 
> plenty of strength, long working time, and a glue collar that won't end
up 
> in the tail cove. I'd recommend countersinking the bore with this stuff
too 
> - or with any other glue.
>
> Ron N