Ivory keytops

[Chris Gregg]

White Gesso or acrylic titanium white pigment from your local art supply 
mixed with high tack fish glue from Lee Valley Tools will do a nice job of 
gluing on your ivories, if you are not using ivory wafers.

Chris Gregg

At 08:48 PM 1/2/2004, you wrote:
>Thanks Richard,
>
>ivory : ivory glue (hide + titanium) or if not possible whitening your
>usual glue with titanium or a white stone powder.
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>Isaac OLEG
>accordeur - reparateur - concert
>oleg-i@noos.fr
>19 rue Jules Ferry
>94400 VITRY sur SEINE
>tel: 033 01 47 18 06 98
>fax: 33 01 47 18 06 90
>mobile: 033 06 60 42 58 77
>------------------------------------
>
>
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> > [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la
> > part de John Ross
> > Envoyé : samedi 3 janvier 2004 03:29
> > À : Pianotech
> > Objet : Re: Ivory keytops
> >
> >
> > Hi Richard,
> > I know the PVC-E will come off the plastic keytops with
> > water. Did you try
> > and remove it?
> > The glue remains flexible, so you could also try a razor blade.
> > The PVC-E should be OK. I sometimes use Duco cement. But
> > with all the glues,
> > keep your fingers clean.
> > Regards,
> > John M. Ross
> > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Richard Strang" <rstrang@pa.inter.net>
> > To: "pianotech (E-mail)" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 10:12 PM
> > Subject: Ivory keytops
> >
> >
> > > Hello, list,
> > >    Once again, I learned a big lesson the very hard way,
> > so I thought I'd
> > > share my grief with you all.
> > >    I worked on an old player upright last night. It was a
> > 1907 variety,
> > but
> > > someone in California had rebuilt it very well. Why? Who
> > knows? But it was
> > > in very good shape, and close to pitch.
> > >    All the ivory keytops, the squares, were coming off.
> > about 15 had been
> > > off for quite some time, but the customer had saved them
> > and gave them to
> > me
> > > to glue back on. I also gave a tug at all the rest that
> > had not come off
> > yet
> > > and found that most of them were loose. I got out my
> > trusty PVC-E glue and
> > > proceeded to glue them all back on.
> > >    My big mistake? The glue paints on very white and
> > pretty, and I took it
> > > for granted that it would dry that way and would hide the
> > finger prints
> > and
> > > other imperfections that were on the top of the keys that
> > had not had a
> > > keytop on for a while. When I started taking the rubber
> > bands off and
> > > reinstalling the keys, I got a big surprise. PVC-E glue
> > dries perfectly
> > > clear, leaving all imperfections glaring through the
> > keytop which were all
> > > very well glued on now. The job looks terrible, even
> > though there are now
> > > keytops installed which I'm sure feel very much better
> > than the key did
> > > without the ivory. Even so, it is very obvious which keys
> > had been bare
> > for
> > > a while. Should have I used another white glue, such as
> > Titebond? I have
> > > always stayed away from the regular white glues for
> > keytops. Anyway, a
> > word
> > > to the wise. Don't do what I did. If you are going to use
> > PVC-E glue for
> > > ivory keytops, make sure the keytop surface is WHITE
> > before gluing. Lesson
> > > learned.
> > >
> > > Richard
> > >
> > > PS. The player was also rebuilt. All the bellows were
> > new. The entire part
> > > that sits over the keys was in new condition. Much of the
> > rest of the
> > player
> > > mechanism was gone though, so the player will never play
> > again. Anyone
> > need
> > > bellows? Other parts?
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
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