Glassing pinblocks

[Erwinspiano@aol.com]

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Hi Ron
  With so many things in our profession to cionsider I sometimes  think we're 
trying to reinvent the wheel Or in the this case the piano. All  though I 
hardly consider myself as having my head in the sand when it comes to  
improvements I sometimes want to SHOUT OVERKILL. There I feel  better.
   I can't ever recall tuning any of the many  Steiwnays in my clientele that 
had any thing remotely close to what I'd  call a stability problem because of 
plate fit. Some others such as ,Yes, Yamaha  , ocassionaly has a problem & 
who barely fit the flange to the  block yet still one of the worlds most stable  
tuning  pianos.
>
>. . . In response to Dale's comment, I do like to  glass the block for, among
>other things, the very reason mentioned in  Jon's post.  Sometimes you get
>some drift on the block when the  screws go in and what was a nice fit is
>not quite as nice.  Though a  100% fit to the flange may be more than is
>necessary, it certainly  doesn't hurt.
 
  >>> I agree it isn't necessary but  to mind a preference.  

Agreed. I suspect a good fit  all the way along can aid tuning stability.

>  The amount of time  involved in this
>final step is minimal compared with the problems that  can arise from a
>poorly fit block.  As a safety measure, and for my  own peace of mind, I
>think it's well worth the minimal  trouble.
>
>  David,I know the type of cratfsmen you are would  not expect your flange 
fit to ever be a problem to the point of really  needing epoxy.

Here here. We fit the plank with the plate inverted  also. Once it is 
fitted to the flange reasonably well with the screw holes  drilled and 
screws fitted, we drill a location hole for a metal dowel into  each 
end of the pin block to plate web interface. An inverted tuning pin  
is driven into the pin block as the locating dowel.
 
>> Ron I do this  with the plate upside down as well &  once the block is fit 
the plates flipped  over &  then firmly  clamp the block to the flange in 
four places fore & aft & 3 spots  vertically so it's nice and tihgt , then re tap 
the block one  more time, make a final adjustment, then reclamp & drill 
several screw  holes, fit the screws & tighten & then drill the rest leaving the 
clamps  in place till quite a few more screws are in before I take off the  
clamps.  I like the idea you have here of a locating pin as well. I've  had no 
plate slippage with this system.
 
 Dale
   
The plate flange 
is de-burred with an angle grinder to allow for an  easy release of 
the epoxy paste, then the pin block is epoxy fitted with  screws 
installed. We don't use wood screws for securing the pin block to the  
plate. Instead, we use 8 mm countersunk machine screws. Rock maple is  
such a good material for forming a fine thread, so we cut the threads  
into the pin block with a tap before fitting up the machine  screws.

The epoxy fit-up provides a very accurate job without costing too  much in 
time.

Ron O.


 

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