veneer

[Stéphane Collin]

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Here, we use exclusively hot glue for this work.  We first warm the wood =
pannel (on which you apply the veneer) with an iron.  We then apply very =
quickly a layer of hot glue to that pannel.  Then, apply the piece of =
veneer, and work it from center to sides to remove the air bubbles with =
a special tool that looks like a hammer that has at one side a portion =
that is large and thin, giving optimal strength to rub the bubbles out =
of the surface.  If you need two sheets of veneer, you do the same for =
the two sheets, but you don't glue the sides that will be touching, and =
you make the two sheets overlap a little bit.  When the two sheets are =
set, you then cut them flush together with one knife movement, and then =
tou put glue underneath and go along rubbing the bubbles out, in the =
direction of the touching side.  No need of clamping.  The good with hot =
glue is that you easily reactivate it by warming with the iron, if it =
has set too quickly.

Regards,

St=E9phane Collin
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Ed Carwithen=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 4:59 AM
  Subject: veneer


  I am working on an upright piano that had water damage on the =
horizontal surfaces.  I ordered thin walnut veneer and have been trying, =
unsuccessfully, to get it to adhere to the boards.  I did remove the old =
damaged veneer, and cleaned and sanded the surfaces to be repaired.  I =
first worked with wood glue and clamped in a sandwich of boards, then =
tried a contact cement on the next piece.  I keep getting air bubbles.  =
It looks terrible!  There has to be a secret to replacing veneer.  Would =
one of you expert refinishers give me the benefit of your =
knowledge...please?

  Ed Carwithen
  John Day, OR
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