Flush-cutting (Japan) saw does the job well, if you want to leave the core intact in the shank for making a new kerf. Otherwise, knuckle-pulling pliers. End cutters can be modified with a stop for the same purpose. I would consider checking the distances involved with the idea of perhaps repositioning the knuckles a little further away from the center pin. A test hammer assembly or two would be a good idea. The Renner hammer pulling pliers are quick and easy if the glue isn't too strong. Could make it worthwhile to switch to some nice new shanks, with less weight. That's a start, Guy At 09:02 PM 7/14/2004 -0500, you wrote: >Hello, List, >I have been in the States for a couple of weeks and did a little regulation >work on my brother's Baldwin Artist grand piano, 1921. The piano has new >hammers and pinblock, and has been restrung, but whoever did the work did >not replace the hammer shanks/ knuckles. The knuckles are very worn. Some >are worn down to the wood. It seems like such a big job to have to remove >all the hammers in order to change the shanks and knuckles. Can't just the >knuckles be changed? If so, how in the world would one get the old knuckle >off the shank without doing damage? Thanks. > >Richard Strang > > > > >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC