I have never been 100% happy with any large-surface veneering I have done ( always a little wavy ). But I have used contact cement, then pounded on the surface to get it glued "flat". And Elmer's glue, allowed to dry, then ironed together. ( Plenty of heat/pressure! ) In both cases a non-uniform glue layer seems to be the main culprit in preventing flat resulkts, so use aroller, spray can...whatever...to insure this! I would certainly like to see a tech who has been sucessful in creating a glass-flat re-veneering come forth and share his/her secret!!! Thump --- Andrew & Rebeca Anderson <anrebe@zianet.com> wrote: > I remember a syringe being used to remove air from a > very persistent air > bubble. 3 or 4" steel rollers work really well > usually... > Andrew > At 07:59 PM 7/13/2004 -0700, you wrote: > >I am working on an upright piano that had water > damage on the horizontal > >surfaces. I ordered thin walnut veneer and have > been trying, > >unsuccessfully, to get it to adhere to the boards. > I did remove the old > >damaged veneer, and cleaned and sanded the surfaces > to be repaired. I > >first worked with wood glue and clamped in a > sandwich of boards, then > >tried a contact cement on the next piece. I keep > getting air bubbles. It > >looks terrible! There has to be a secret to > replacing veneer. Would one > >of you expert refinishers give me the benefit of > your knowledge...please? > > > >Ed Carwithen > >John Day, OR > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC