Making long bridges

Ron Nossaman RNossaman@cox.net
Wed, 17 Mar 2004 23:35:59 -0600


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>I need a crash course on bridge building (long bridges, bent laminated
>type).  Could use some suggestions on how I might go about getting
>information, how to make a template, what tools I might need, materials,
>etc..  Whatever can be offered would be appreciated.
>
>David Love

Hi David,
It's coming up on pumpkin time, and I'm about to collapse for the night, 
but I'll try to do a quick outline for you.

I use a rubbing (paper template) from the original configuration (before I 
take the strings off) as a point of departure. After re-scaling, I use that 
template to establish the new speaking lengths, which I use to lay out the 
new bridge. Once you have the template for the new bridge, you need to 
decide how you are going to build the bridge. You can cut it out from solid 
stock, joined at the scale breaks to keep the grain running roughly 
parallel to the bridge, or you can laminate it. You can laminate it 
horizontally, putting the joints in each lamination in random places so the 
strength of the assembly won't be compromised, which works fine. Or you can 
laminate vertically, which means building a jig of some sort for clamping 
the laminations to the required curve. I've done bridges with continuous 
vertical laminations, but it's a lot more work than should be necessary for 
a one-off bridge. You need laminations at 2mm or under to make the dogleg 
bends at the struts to maintain a semi-log speaking length progression, and 
a tremendous amount of clamp pressure.

An easier way to do a vertically laminated bridge root is to use the 
lamination thicknesses to supply the dogleg offset and not have all the 
laminations continuous for the length of the bridge. Terry Ferrell asked 
about this a while back, and it looked like a good idea to me, so I tried 
it. It works very well. Thanks Terry. You just have to build half a jig to 
accommodate it, clamping the lamination stack against it without needing a 
caul on the far side. Actually, I used backing strips to spread out clamp 
pressure, but still didn't have to cut out a full caul. Since the core 
laminations don't have to be forced into an extreme bend, it's considerably 
easier to manage and takes much less clamp pressure. It just takes a little 
more pondering and planning before the fact.

Cutting out a solid root and putting a cap on top is still easiest, but I 
like laminations. Just not all that bright, I suspect.

That short stack of maple just above the bridge in the photo is the 
laminated cap (1.5mm laminations), waiting to be cut and fitted to the 
root. The bridge root is still rough cut here (hacked, actually), and will 
be smoothed and contoured before the cap is installed.

bridge laminations.jpg

The laminations in this bridge vary from 2mm to maybe 5 or 6mm. I used what 
I had lying around from previous projects that added up to the offsets I 
needed for the doglegs. It's a tad over 30mm wide overall.

To do this, you need a way to produce the required laminations - be it a 
table saw or band saw, and (ideally) thickness planer. You need lots of 
clamps (naturally), and scrap(able) lumber for building the jig. You also 
need a glue that is reasonably hard and creep resistant. I use Titebond. 
Realistically the glue used for laminating doesn't need to be able to hold 
continents together without shifting under billions of PSI. Gluing the cap 
on top, and the panel on the bottom of the root laminates will effectively 
insure that nothing is going to slide apart with a reasonably decent glue.

The rest is just the usual bridge work - or you can send me the original 
rubbing and the offset revisions (or?) and we can work something out.

Did I miss anything?

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Ron N
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