I wanted to mention a couple of other thoughts on hammer selection and tone. If this is the original board, I would probably opt for a hammer that was no heavier than the original and probably softer. It's very easy to drive an old floppy soundboard into a state of distortion and length of attack has long replaced length of sustain. A softer, lighter hammer will serve the tone of the instrument better, in my opinion. Ronsen can certainly make a hammer that is as light as you need it especially when combined with full tapering. A new, heavier, harder, Renner hammer is very likely not going to produce the best sound on this instrument but rather a harsh and loud attack that will stand out when compared with the reduced sustain characteristics of an old soundboard. So I might just stick with the original dimensions and employ a hammer set of weight and density that is appropriate for both tone and the high action ratio. David Love davidlovepianos@comcast.net -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Richard Brekne Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 5:25 AM To: Newtonburg Subject: 1879 Steinway A Hey folks Am just getting started changing a set of hammers and shanks on this old A. The new shanks place the shank center pin about 2 mm further away from the hammer rail. This pushes the knuckles just a bit farther back then I would like, and will force me to go through all whippens and remove a bit of the jack return cushion in order to regulate the jacks. The origional whippens are going to remain and there is no regulating button for this position on those for those of you that arent familiar with this older type of Steinway action. The origional centerpin to knuckle was 15.5. So with the new shanks at 17, and the center itself out about 2 mm... the knuckle itself is out about 3.5 mm more. The jack to knuckle position with the origional shanks and knuckles has the jack well under the knuckle and past the back end of the core... so there is room to make the adjustment to get a good position with the new shanks. I'm looking for suggestions and thoughts as to what to do here. I could go through and change all flanges so as to use the origionals I suppose.. I checked one and the jack ended up just perfect under the knuckle... but then I have to change all the flanges on the new set. so whadaya whadaya ? RicB _______________________________________________ pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives _______________________________________________ pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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