Bridge pin angle

[Ron Nossaman]

> I agree.  The real issue is how to get the pin solid (or how to prevent
> it from getting unsolid) and, also, how to prepare the cap.  I am,
> admittedly, rethinking my approach in all this.  On new bridge caps
> (since I don't have a notcher and don't use delignit) I am getting into
> the habit of coating the top and notches with a clear coat of epoxy
> prior to pinning.  I use the System Three thin stuff for this.  Clean
> out the holes with a toothpick to insure no buildup. Then, when fully
> cured sand it back down smooth without going below the original level.
> The epoxy on the cap and on the notches seems to harden and support the
> edge a bit and help prevent string indentation and damage.  When it
> comes time to insert the pins I swab the inside of the hole with just a
> bit of clear coat epoxy (very thin using a toothpick) and drive the pin.
> Not so much that I get any or much squeeze out, but enough to secure the
> pin.  I wipe away any excess as I go.  

I'd think this has to be stronger than just unreinforced wood.


>Afterward, I don't file them flat
> as I see no reason to stress the pin/cap joint by pushing back and forth
> and heating them up with the file.  

That, and I see no reason to file them flat in the first place.


>When all is complete, I mask off the
> board and shoot a very light coat of satin lacquer over the whole thing
> for appearance.  

Yup, take the high gloss off of the epoxy. I have in the past used a 
dust coat of McLube for the same reason.


> While the tradition has been to be sure the notch edge is a sharp edge,
> I have begun to wonder whether or not a slightly rounded edge wouldn't
> be better.  Since the critical point of termination is the pin and not
> the edge of the cap, just the slightest rounding back to the edge of the
> bridge pin itself would seem to prevent a slight amount of compression
> from creating a bridge surface that extends beyond the center of the pin
> out into the speaking length.  

Or just cutting the notch a bit  farther back. There's no 
performance reason I can see that the notch edge has to exactly 
bisect the pin.


>In terms of seating the string, I'm
> finding that the most effective seating is done with a slight push on
> the string toward the bridge pin rather than down on the cap.  Much like
> massaging the strings up on the capo bar, settling the string onto the
> pin itself seems to be more effective.  This is, of course, assuming (as
> you mention, Ron) that the bridge pin is secure.    
> 
> David Love

Is this new strings? If so, yes, definitely.I see no reason at all 
to ever seat new strings on a well prepared bridge cap. Tightening 
the bends around the bearing points of hitch, aliquot, bridge pins, 
capo, agraffe, and front counterbearing settles the string in 
faster. In field service, I'm not sure why it would be necessary at 
all.

Ron N