cleaning keys

[gordon stelter]

Yes, I use a fine-bristle brass pot brush, with the
grain and dipped in lacquer thinner, to scrub out the
old filler/stripper goop that can cause REAL PROBLEMS
in the new finish, due to solvent residues. 
( Remember--strippers are DESIGNED  not to have their
solvents evaporate quickly! ) 
      Then, after wiping off residue with more lacquer
thinner on paper towels, I dtermine if bleachiung will
be necessary, then sand LIGHTLY - -just enough to
remove fuzz- and start the new stain and finish
application. 
     This, I believe, is the best way to get a
gorgeous finish with minimal damage to the veneer. I
have never noticed any damage using the fine-bristle
brush, yet it gets down into the pores and cleans them
nicely. 
     Try it on a piece of junk piano if you are
dubious.
     Thump



> Jack,
>          You've tried this? No damage to the grain?
> More sanding required?
> 
> Greg Newell
> 
> 
> At 04:58 PM 2/19/2005, you wrote:
> >Thanks everyone
> >
> >I now have a lot of new ideas and will work with
> them. The brass brush and
> >scrub with denatured alcohol works great.
> >
> >Jack Houweling
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> >Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 1:09 PM
> >Subject: Re: cleaning keys
> >
> >
> > > Use a $3 brass pot brush, fine bristles,
> available at
> > > most grocery stores. Leave the keys on the frame
> and
> > > brush across the lot of them, then with the
> length to
> > > finish up.
> > >      If you want cleaner than this, next scrape
> off
> > > heavy grunge buildsup ( finger poop ) from the
> sides
> > > with single edxdge razors,  removing as little
> wood as
> > > possible. Then scrub with Scotch Brite (TM) pads
> in
> > > denatured alcohol.( Wear gloves and a mask! ) 
> If they
> > > are STILL too cruddy looking, bleach with oxalic
> acid,
> > > put in a plastic sealed box with an ozone
> generator (
> > > to remove odors ) and paint with epoxy enamel. (
> Plug
> > > bushing slots with an old set of cauls. )
> > >      That ought to be enough.
> > >      If it isn't, knock out the old leads and
> take
> > > them to a tire store, throw the keys away and
> buy a
> > > new set for about $3,000.
> > >      Thump
> > >
> > >
> > > --- James Grebe <pianoman@accessus.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Try 0000 steel wool with the grain
> > > > James Grebe
> > > > Piano-Forte Tuning & Repair
> > > > Creator of Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups,
> piano
> > > > benches, writing instruments
> > > > (314) 608-4137
> > > > WWW.JamesGrebe.com
> > > > 1526 Raspberry Lane
> > > > Arnold, MO 63010
> > > > BECOME WHAT YOU BELIEVE!
> > > > pianoman@accessus.net
> > > >   ----- Original Message -----
> > > >   From: Jack Houweling
> > > >   To: pianotech
> > > >   Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 1:59 AM
> > > >   Subject: cleaning keys
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >   I am trying to clean the wood on my keys.
> (The
> > > > dirt on the top)  I have tried a brass brush
> on my
> > > > Dremel tool and my mouse sander with not bad
> > > > results, but I would like it better. I have
> seen
> > > > photos of before and after with the keys
> looking
> > > > new. Is there any other techniques or 
> cleaning
> > > > solutions.
> > > >
> > > >   Jack Houweling
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > > _______________________________________________
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> > >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >pianotech list info:
> https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> 
> Greg Newell
> Greg's piano Forté
> mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net 
> 
> 
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> 



		
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