Michael Gamble...could you please make your posts "to" Pianotech@ptg.org. and not "Cc" to pianotech. All of your posts bypass my filter, and are thus separated from the pianotech's group. Just a request Mike Bratcher ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Gamble" <michael@gambles.fsnet.co.uk> To: "Greg Livingston" <pianotuner440@hotmail.com> Cc: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 3:12 PM Subject: Re: Aural tuning- 300 cents flat > Hello Greg > The ETDs in this answer do NOT cost an arm and a leg. They are cheap. All > you need is an ETD which gives several "A"s - say 438, 439, 440, 441, 442, > 443, 444, 445 - they are very inexpensive chromatic tuners and are > frequently sold in music shops. Not high quality but quite adequate for > your purpose. I always keep one in my kit for just such pianos. Please > refer back in the Archives to my post "Raising xxx to Pitch" - about a > year or more back, for the details on "how". Set the cheapo tuner to A=445 > and tune all strings of all A's and associated M3s to A=445. Then set to > A=444. and tune all M3's associated with B. Then set to A=443 and tune > all M3s associated with G#. Finally set the ETD to A=441.( Note: 441.) and > tune all M3s associated with A#. You will now have tuned the whole piano > up to about A=440 and all that is needed is a final A=440 tuning. This > being a cheapo ETD it will not "see" the extreme ends of the piano - so > you have to do that aurally (in 8ves) The whole session should take no > more than 90 minutes - plus dealing with any broken strings or other odds > and sodds. You do it with the action IN PLACE. (no "chipping") My archived > method goes more deeply into the process and further defines which strings > to do and in what order. But you won't go wrong with the above truncated > method. > Good luck! > Michael G(UK) > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Greg Livingston" <pianotuner440@hotmail.com> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 6:42 AM > Subject: Re: Aural tuning- 300 cents flat > > >> Hello, friends, >> >> The super-flat piano mentioned in my original post was able to hold its >> pitch at 425. I usually just crank these babies right up to 440; >> sometimes a bit higher if the piano is relatively new, then settle them >> back down to 440. I might be there all day but I will eventually get it >> stable. I hate to leave a piano under 440 and hardly ever do, and only >> then for structural reasons. >> >> I didn't mind the three broken strings; they were in the high treble, >> above the dampers, so they were easy to reach and I needed the practice. >> What I worry about is bridges cracking, since no knot will fix those. At >> this time, I don't do shop work, and I'd have to farm it out (if I could >> find someone to agree to do it.) >> >> As for getting an ETD to help with pitch raises, well, I wish I could but >> with two kids in college, buying the daily newspaper sometimes can seem >> like a luxury. For the time being, I'll be 100% aural. >> >> If you've never dared a drastic pitch raise, here's what I do: >> -tighten all screws >> -strip-mute the whole piano to one string per note >> -pull A4 to 440 (if you dare) >> -tune A3 to A4; then A2, etc. all the way down >> -do the same thing for all the As going up >> -then tune the Es up and down, then the Bs, going through the cycle of >> 5ths for the entire piano >> (F#, C#, G#, D#, Bb, F, C, G, D) so the added strain is spread throughout >> the instrument >> -pull the unisons in >> -start the process over; you'll be much closer and more stable. >> -finally, begin to fine-tune the piano. It should be quite stable then. >> _______________________________________ >> Gregory P. Livingston, Piano Tuning and Service >> 781-237-9178 >> Piano Technicians Guild (associate member) >> * * * >> Always remember September 11, 2001 >> >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
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