which lubes?

[JAMES DALLY]

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I use a 3cc with the longer needle for CA.....immediately fill after use =
with nail polish remover and use it again.  I use it primarily to put CA =
on pins. =20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Porritt, David=20
  To: Pianotech=20
  Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 4:07 PM
  Subject: RE: which lubes?


  Jason:

  =20

  I generally use Protec on hammer flanges and I apply it with all parts =
mounted using a syringe.  You can buy large syringes at any pharmacy.  =
While these used to be somewhat restricted to keep them from drug =
addicts, now they are freely sold so drug addicts won't share needles =
and get AIDS. =20

  =20

  dp

  =20

  David M. Porritt

  dporritt@smu.edu


-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----

  From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On =
Behalf Of jason kanter
  Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 12:51 PM
  To: Pianotech
  Subject: which lubes?

  =20

  Couple of questions have arisen for me.

  =20

  Steinway upright, 1883, 20 cent pitch raise. In the high treble, I had =
an awful time getting the tension to move across the pressure bars. =
Pull, pound, pull, pound, pull, whack - no movement - gently pull a =
little more - string suddenly goes to 5 cents sharp. Lower, whack, =
lower, whack - no movement south - suddenly the string is 5 cents flat. =
Sigh. Pull, pull, etc. What's the best lube for the region of the string =
between the pin and the speaking length?

  =20

  The other situation is grand hammer flanges. WHen they need some =
alcohol or some Protek lube or whatever, what's the neatest way to apply =
the liquid without sacrificing effectiveness? Choices I've tried are:=20

  (1) Spray from 1", left to right at an angle and right to left at an =
angle, basically thereby soaking the whole flange in liquid and getting =
the bushings wet. Messy. Not particularly efficient.

  (2) Remove every other hammer/flange. Treat the removed ones over a =
towel, putting a few drops on each bushing and working the flange back =
and forth. Treat the others still attached to the action, tipping the =
action up on end, putting a few drops on each bushing, tipping the =
action the other way and repeating. Then replace all the removed hammer =
flanges. The hammer-string alignment is preserved by the hammers that =
were not removed. This is time-consuming, and seems inherently uneven =
because the flanges that are removed get slightly different treatment =
from those that are not removed.=20

  (3) Remove them all. Creates an additional issue in hammer-string =
alignment, takes longer, but gives the greatest control over the work.

  =20

  Thanks in advance. /Jason

  =20

  (ps. I am embarrassed to admit that when I was apprenticed in 1970-71 =
to Sheldon Smith, the technique I learned was to slather everything with =
WD-40. This was my first introduction to WD-40 and Sheldon obviously =
thought it was great stuff. I am sure he abandoned that practice upon =
revisiting some of these poor pianos.)

  | |   | | |   | |   | | |   | |   | | |   | |   | | |   | |   | | |   =
| |   | | |   | | =20

  Jason Kanter . piano tuning, regulation & repair

  jkanter@rollingball.com . cell 425 830 1561

  serving the eastside and the san juans

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