backchecks

[gordon stelter]

I have never found a  glue incompatibility problem
with thick PVC, such as "Aileen's Tacky Glue",
available from fabric stores. In fact, smeared over
old hard hide glue, it merges with it and softens it.
For this reason it can be used to remove old hide glue
on big exhauster bellows on player pianos, for
example, without sanding off wood, or distoting the
laminations as a pure water application would.
     AND... it won't soak through any leather or
fabric, hardening it.
     Thump


--- Keith Roberts <kpiano@goldrush.com> wrote:

> Glue compatibility. You just scraped off the old
> stuff instead of soaking
> them off and removing as much of the old glue as
> possible. Hot hide is the
> only choice because not only it will reactivate the
> glue that is still
> there, it will set in seconds so clamping isn't a
> great issue. 10 clothespin
> clamps moved on down the line as you go should do
> it.
> 
> Should you stretch the leather or buckskin first?
> 
> kpiano
> 
> 
> 
> > Any reason not to use PVC-E with clamping for 1/2
> hour or so? Haven't
> tried
> > it, anybody ... ?
> >
> > Alan R. Barnard
> > Stickin' to it in Salem, MO
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On
> Behalf
> > Of David Love
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 9:12 PM
> > To: ilvey@sbcglobal.net; 'Pianotech'
> > Subject: RE: backchecks
> >
> >
> > Hot hide will work.  Take a pair of shears and cut
> the leather in the
> middle
> > (since it's not glued to the leather you can just
> slip the shears between
> > the leather and the felt).  Peel off the leather
> and scrape the backcheck
> > clean as much as possible.  Put on a thin coating
> of hide glue on the
> wooden
> > part of back check first.  Don't use any urea in
> the mix as you want it to
> > set up as quickly as possible.  Let the glue
> thicken before you apply the
> > glue to the leather and glue the top of the back
> check first and do the
> > entire set from one end to the other.  Go back to
> the beginning and put
> the
> > glue on the leather for the bottom end and hold it
> in place with your
> finger
> > for a 10 seconds or so and go to the next one.  A
> clothes pin also works
> > well.  When you finish go back to the beginning
> and use a pair of flush
> cut
> > center pin knippers (like #230 in the Schaff
> Catalogue) to nip off the
> > excess on the low side of the back check.  To get
> it done in 2-3 hours,
> you
> > will need to precut the leather before hand and
> preheat the hide glue just
> > before you drive over to the customer's house
> (assuming you are doing this
> > on site) so that the glue will reheat quickly once
> you arrive.
> >
> > David Love
> > davidlovepianos@comcast.net
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On
> Behalf
> > Of David Ilvedson
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 6:29 PM
> > To: pianotech@ptg.org
> > Subject: backchecks
> >
> > List,
> >
> > I have a Steinway D with numerous torn backchecks
> caused by poorly
> > shaped tails with deep checkering etc.   I need to
> repair and intend to
> > recover with buckskin.  I perused the archives and
> the only mention of
> > this was a good post by David Swartz.   He uses CA
> glue.   I do need to
> > do the repair within a time frame of 2 to 3 hours.
>   Would any other
> > glue work as well as CA without the wicking
> problems (if there are any)? I
> > would imagine hot hide glue would be the best but
> would the first gluing
> > hold after an hour enough to stretch the leather
> and glue the
> > other side?   I'm figuring on clothespins....
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > David Ilvedson, RPT
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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> 
> 
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> 



		
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