Why not just do a Spurlock-type shim job right up to both sides of the bridge? If there is a small area where the bridge is not glued to the panel, put some glue in there and block up the panel from behind and go bar on top - or use a rib gluing boat before shimming (but instead of gluing on a rib you will be gluing on the bridge). Make sense? Terry Farrell > Dear list members, > I am faced with a dilemma and would appreciate your advice once > again. I am refinishing a 61" Howard grand and re-stringing with a new > block. After strings were removed and the piano sat in the shop for a time > a soundboard crack appeared which migrates under a crook in the long > bridge. This could have already been there but not as prominent as it is > now. I'd like to try and repair this but I question how to go about it. > I've tried removing the buttons and screws that attach the long bridge to > the soundboard hoping that the glue would be loose enough to crack it free > and pivot it out of the way in order to make the repair. (There's one screw > way high up in the treble that I just can't get at for love nor money.) > There is not enough money to replace the board and bridges but it seems > that the crack will need to be addressed before it goes out. Also, in one > area of the crack that goes beneath the long bridge the soundboard is > disconnected from the bridge too, naturally. :-( Any advice? > > Greg Newell
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