Terry, Jon Page just forwarded to me a system which I believe will cure the problem. Thanks to one an all for you responses. Greg Newell At 08:28 AM 3/25/2005, you wrote: >Sound like a perfect situation for the epoxy fill. I think maybe Del has >some PTG Journal articles describing a technique - maybe someone else - >maybe check the archives.With epoxy you can get all the way under the bridge >also (squoosh/moosh application technique). > >I haven't tried it, but the process involves taping one side of crack (to >act as a mold of sorts) and filling other side with thickened epoxy. Make >sure the crack/epoxy is prepared for maximum adhesion (I would seriously >consider the West System Two-Step Method). You can color West System epoxy >to come pretty close to spruce. > >Terry Farrell > > > > Naturally this is what I would have done if the crack did not meander as >it > > does. No where near a straight line. > > > > > > > > At 08:32 PM 3/24/2005, you wrote: > > >Why not just do a Spurlock-type shim job right up to both sides of the > > >bridge? If there is a small area where the bridge is not glued to the >panel, > > >put some glue in there and block up the panel from behind and go bar on > > >top - or use a rib gluing boat before shimming (but instead of gluing on >a > > >rib you will be gluing on the bridge). > > > > > >Make sense? > > > > > >Terry Farrell > > > > > > > > > > Dear list members, > > > > I am faced with a dilemma and would appreciate your advice >once > > > > again. I am refinishing a 61" Howard grand and re-stringing with a new > > > > block. After strings were removed and the piano sat in the shop for a >time > > > > a soundboard crack appeared which migrates under a crook in the long > > > > bridge. This could have already been there but not as prominent as it >is > > > > now. I'd like to try and repair this but I question how to go about >it. > > > > I've tried removing the buttons and screws that attach the long bridge >to > > > > the soundboard hoping that the glue would be loose enough to crack it >free > > > > and pivot it out of the way in order to make the repair. (There's one > > >screw > > > > way high up in the treble that I just can't get at for love nor >money.) > > > > There is not enough money to replace the board and bridges but it >seems > > > > that the crack will need to be addressed before it goes out. Also, in >one > > > > area of the crack that goes beneath the long bridge the soundboard is > > > > disconnected from the bridge too, naturally. :-( Any advice? > > > > > > > > Greg Newell > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > Greg Newell > > Greg's piano Forté > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives Greg Newell Greg's piano Forté mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
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