Hi Joe As I said in my first reply, I have only used epoxy once for this and found it just about as time consuming as actually mating the pinblock the old way. After just seeing Bolducs video, it seems obvious that if you do this a number of times you can get real fast at it. The block I did it for was a Bechstein and really... if I had to do it over again I''d not bother. That said, plastic foil would work well as a liner, and bee's wax has been mentioned. Its good to be aware that many agents have rather unbelievable creep capabilities inside wood. So whatever one uses it shouldnt contain any greases or oils. No good contaminating the pinblock. Guaranteed problems with jerky pins and the like that way. Why not ? I'd turn that question around and ask why.... in the sense of whether or not any superior performance is evident with the use of epoxy mating. One other thing... the Pinblock must be pretty well mated anyways.. almost to the point of not needing epoxy to begin with. Plate height and stringplane angle over the bridge are all dependant on the mating process. If all you want is a better flange mate, you can easily enough use a thiner mix as part of the last step in installing a pinblock... just before screwing down the plate onto the rim. JMT Richard Brekne --------------------- While I've never been a proponent of using fiberglass resin or epoxy to mate a pinblock to the plate flange I'm wondering, if because of the exigencies of circumstances I had to go this route, what are you all using...material wise, to do this? Brand names, success rate, viscosity, etc. And why not? (inquisitive minds would like to know.<G>) Joe Garrett, R.P.T. (Oregon) Captain, Tool Police Squares R I
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