hex socket bolts

David Love davidlovepianos@comcast.net
Thu, 1 Sep 2005 07:21:43 -0700


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Terry:

=20

Where did you get the long hex bits and the red handled T driver.  Also,
what size do you drill before you tap?  Can these screws be driven in =
after
the hole is drilled?  After all, I do press in new capstans, though the =
wood
in keys tends to be somewhat softer.

=20

David Love
davidlovepianos@comcast.net=20

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On =
Behalf
Of Farrell
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 10:26 AM
To: Pianotech
Subject: Re: hex socket bolts

=20

Well, as long as it is show and tell time, I guess I'll jump into the =
fray!
Below is a picture of the system/parts/tools I am using for plate =
support
and adjustment. Pretty much the same as Ron N and others, except I think =
I
interject a little bit of overkill for better sleep. As someone pointed =
out,
often the original screw holes are not very straight. So I just drill =
them
out with a half-inch bit and epoxy in hardwood plugs. Then I line up the
plate properly and drill nice straight holes with my overhead drill =
press.
Then I tap the holes (tap - with extension - is the long silver thing on
top). I have a long hex bit (lower right) that I chuck into an electric
drill for most of the screwing action. Then I use the red-handled =
hex-bit
"T" driver for fine-tuning the height. Three of the 4" x 3/8"-16 set =
screws
are on the lower left. The left most is bare, the center one has the =
thin
nylon lock nut that the plate sits on, and the right one has the acorn =
nut
that goes on top of the plate (I also put a ss washer between the acorn =
nut
and the plate). This system seems to work quite well.

=20

Terry Farrell

=20




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