I think the main thing with bushings is that you don't want it too thick. If, when the glue is applied to the bushing cloth, the layer is too thick, it will tend to squeeze out beyond the end of the bushing cloth when you insert the caul and can create a lump of glue which will scrape against the keypin. Too thin and you risk soaking through the bushing cloth and also the adhesion can be compromised. Bottom line, you need different viscosities for different applications. For bushings, olive oil or warm honey are pretty close either one works. The main thing is you want it thin enough that when you spread it on the bushing cloth you can keep the layer fairly thin. (On the other hand, you want it quite thick for hammer hanging, if you use if for that). The application of a very thin coat (even thinner than olive oil) to the mortise will help with adhesion when using a relatively thin viscosity for bushings. Use urea to lengthen the working time. David Love davidlovepianos@comcast.net -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Nichols Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 6:17 AM To: Pianotech Subject: Re: hide glue Olive oil is a little thin when our ambient RH is under 20%. I lean more towards warm honey. Guy At 07:37 AM 9/10/2005 -0400, you wrote: >Farrell wrote: > >>Hot hide glue, I presume? I like it about the viscosity of olive oil. >>Works for me. I also pre-apply a coat of glue to the wooden key mortise >>(I follow the deluxe Spurlock method). > >I concur with the esteemed colleague to my North. > >-Phil Bondi(Fl) > >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > _______________________________________________ pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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