Wurzen "Crescendo" front rail punchings ++

Michael Gamble michael@gambles.fsnet.co.uk
Sun, 18 Sep 2005 18:04:07 +0100


Well it's there, available and wonderful - and so are the centre rail
"balance" punchings. Andre's experimenting on those to reduce the friction
at that point, though mine haven't been adapted.
Regards
Michael G.(UK)

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew and Rebeca Anderson [mailto:anrebe@sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: 18 September 2005 16:23
To: Pianotech
Subject: RE: Wurzen "Crescendo" front rail punchings ++

Talked with him last week while making and order.  He's getting the 
center rail punchings in "soon".  He didn't mention the back rail felt.

Andrew
At 09:54 AM 9/18/2005, you wrote:
>Looking on that pianosupply house you suggested I see they also have these
>punchings of Andre's. I wonder if they know about Andre's other punchings -
>the Wurzen balance rail punchings? (and the Wurzen back rail touch
felt...!)
>I have all these now on my S&S 'A'
>Regards
>Michael G.(UK)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Brad Smith [mailto:staff@smithpiano.com]
>Sent: 18 September 2005 12:03
>To: Pianotech
>Subject: RE: Accurate cutting strips of cloth for Damper backing
>
>Hi Michael,
>I use the same setup, but not just a straight edge.
>I mark a line with a pen for my cut.
>Then, I put a straight-edged, clear, 1/8" thick plastic sheet over top of
>the strip that I'm about to cut.
>So, the skinny strip that I want, is now trapped under the plastic, and my
>target cutting line is right on the edge of the plastic.
>Keep good pressure, roll your cutter along your line at the edge of the
>plastic.
>You'll find that you favor one side of the cutter, because it allows you a
>better view of how the blade is matching
>against the straight edge.  TaDA....You have a nicely cut piece.  Works for
>buckskin too, when recovering backchecks.
>If you go a little wide of the line, no problem, this method allows you to
>make another pass to trim an existing piece of material
>if needed.   The other way (with the desired felt strip sticking out from
>under your straight edge)
>gives you no room for error.  Don't be cheap about using a nice new sharp
>blade, too.
>
>Another idea:  I haven't needed to do this, but I have thought about making
>a thin straight cut in the plastic, which would act as a
>blade guide for the roller blade. That would allow even better control, I
>imagine.
>
>The plastic can be found at craft stores, and some home improvement stores.
>It's too stiff to use for bridge patterns, but is an excellent indexing
tool
>for rebuilding, pinblock location, etc.
>For example, I made a hammer centering jig with it, that allowed me to
>quickly position and mark the strike point on new hammers
>before installation. And, I used it to do careful indexing of fallboard
>hardware pivot point, when installing one of those fallboard
>decelerators (See http://www.pianofortesupply.com/fallboarddeceler.html )
>in a grand piano.
>The pivot point is crucial, and the plastic allows me to get an excellent
>reference for where to drill a new hole in the side of a
>perfectly good piano.  :-)
>
>
>Best regards,
>Brad Smith, RPT
>www.smithpiano.com
>
>
>   -----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Gamble [mailto:michael@gambles.fsnet.co.uk]
>Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 3:37 AM
>To: pianotech@ptg.org
>Subject: Re: Accurate cutting strips of cloth for Damper backing
>Hello List
>Anyone got any bright ideas on how to cut cloth (or felt) in really
parallel
>strips and at a specific width for use on damper backing? The original was
>indeed cloth, not felt, the weave is plain to see at the sides. I have a
>"roller" type knife, one of those rubbery green mats (a large one) marked
>out in small squares, and a long straight-edge used for key-levelling. The
>problem is to stop the felt from shifting under the knife! (don't we all?)
>Regards
>Michael G.(UK)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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