Thanks for the helpful ideas, Terry! I'd just drillout the stuff, I guess, if it was too much. I'd also rig some sort of guides up, to keep the caul in the center of the keyfront, side-to-side. Like maybe a couple of spring clamps lined up against scribed lines, their tips acting as barriers to the caul's possible movement. Thanks! G --- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote: > Should work. I'd consider maybe enlarging the > mortise and gluing in properly sized new wood if the > piano was worth it. If it is low budget, your idea > might work fine. I would recommend using #407 > Low-Density filler or their #410 Microlight filler. > Best would be to paint the wood with unthickened > epoxy and then use the filler mixed real thick - > like peanut butter. I would experiment with a few > junk keys. You need to have a technique so that you > don't fill up the rest of the mortise with epoxy - > so that the keypin doesn't end up bottoming out (I > don't think the caul is deep enough). Also, install > bushings in the repaired test key to make sure the > glue sticks to the epoxy. > > Terry Farrell > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com> > > >I have some keys with badly butchered mortices. I > am > > thinking of using West's with filler, putting > Saran > > wrap (TM) over the sizing caul and stuffing it > into > > the gunked up orifice. > > Comments? > > Thump __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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