Terry, I'll second Dale's method (seal the board), except we like to spray the ribs separately, as curved ribs don't always stay that well on the flat board. Also, we changed from Titebond II to Titebond III. We like the longer open time, and there's the bonus that it cleans up more easily. We clean up most of the partially-dried glue with a chisel. III has more cohesiveness than II, so it comes away cleaner with the chisel. We are using two freestanding pneumatic presses, like yours I think, and press 1 and 7, 2 and 8, and so on. As soon as two are on, we wait about five minutes while getting the next two ribs laid out, then start scraping. I don't really mean scraping, in that the chisel is at a low angle and just glides on the board. Then a quick swipe with the wet rag and it's done. Pressing alternate ribs makes them easier to get to. Bob D In a message dated 12/11/2006 5:54:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, Erwinspiano at aol.com writes: Hi Terry Yes I've tried all those ways you mention to clean up glue & find them all a pain in the sand. Very unsatisfactory. So what I have done for years is ............... 1 locate the ribs on the board. I use small 1/4 inch nails on each end 2. Scribe faint lines on each side of the rib & also scribe the glue joint around the perimeter,fish,cut-off etc, 3. remove the ribs 4. Quickly tape off the glue joint for each rib & perimeter joint... Takes 10 minutes 5 Install ribs back over the taped off surface. tape off rib ends. 6. Spray one wet coat of kinser shellac or whatever shellac you like on board ribs & all. Let dry over night in hot box Glue up in am or next day Dale -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20061211/7aaf7af7/attachment-0001.html
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