another CA question

[Maggie Jusiel]

Thanks for all the info!

  I think I'm in the "use more" camp.  I'm amazed at how much I can get in
there when the piano is still upright.  Keep in mind, though, that the
wood is sticking out from the plate.  I wouldn't try this if the wood
were completely behind the plate and I couldn't see the glue go into the
wood.

Thanks again for all the responses!

-mags



> Hi Maggie,
>
> Its ten years since I did the first CA glue on a piano--it's still holding
> up just fine. I do recommend humidity control at the highest possible
> level
> after treatment. (but then I recommend that to all pianos).
>
> There have been few horror stories about CA treatment and a multitude of
> successes, so certainly this is now a valid repair for any piano. If it
> doesn't work little has been lost, and if it does work much time and
> effort
> have been saved.
>
> There do seem to be "two camps" for treatment developing.
>
> The "use lots" (of which I am a member, but for no documented reason), and
> the "little dab ul do ya".
>
> Use lots camp requires tipping for uprights, and often as not I'll treat
> the bridges for hair line cracking at the same time.
>
> For bridges I find that an application of "thin" seals the wood, and I
> then
> follow up with "medium" to gap fill.
>
> I start with the bridges, and then do the first application to the pins.
> By
> then the thin coat on the bridges has "set up" and I apply "medium". Then
> I
> do a second application of thin to pins, and I check the bridges again and
> apply more medium as needed. Finally I do a third generous application to
> the pins that have wound strings.
>
> I've had more than a few rural clients do this application themselves. The
> "record" application was 12 ounces with good results. The "record" for a
> single pin was someone who applied 2.5 ounces to a single pin--I suspect
> he
> was filling a huge separation or crack in the block.
>
>
>
>
> At 04:10 AM 2/12/2006 +1300, you wrote:
>>OK...  I'm back to experimenting...  (I have access to lots of junked
>>pianos that have been "trashed" but can't be disposed of easily because
>> of
>>state policies affecting our local college.)
>>
>>I had success with CA gluing an upright pinblock without putting it on
>>it's back.  It actually worked.  I used Q-tips to catch any drips, which
>> I
>>was pretty good at avoiding.  I used Stew-Mac pipettes to apply the glue,
>>because the small tip could fit into the gaps between the pins and the
>>wood, and because if it looked like I might drip, I could suck the glue
>>back in.  Once the wood soaked up as much as it could, the glue "puddled"
>>in the gaps without dripping.
>>
>>I don't know if I want to try this on a good piano, and may never, but
>>it's interesting...  Any thoughts?
>>
>>-mags
>>
>>
>>Maggie Jusiel
>
> Regards,
> Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.P.T.
> Non calor sed umor est qui nobis incommodat
>
> mailto:pianotuna@yahoo.com	http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/
>
> 3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK, S4S 5G7
> 306-539-0716 or 1-888-29t-uner
>
>


Maggie Jusiel
Piano Tuner
Winds & Strings Teacher
PO Box 1234
Athens, WV  24712-1234
(304)952-8615
<mags@magsmusic.net>
<http://www.magsmusic.net>


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