I've done a lot of players, and have found lacquer thinner to be very good for verdigris removal ( soaking valves in gallon paint cans of the stuff ), so I wonder why you'd use 111 trichloroethane ??? Soaking the wippens in lacquer thinner also ought to rinse out whatever it was that Steinway used as a lubricant which reacts with the center pins and causes the verdigris, and to dissolve a lot of the exterior dirt without sandblasting or using the Super-Clean (TM) method. Super-Clean (TM) truly works wonderfully, but is probably not a good idea on a fine grand. I use it primarily for filthy, unavailable player piano wippens where a little distortion of the center pin bore is not a crisis. I'd be worried about grain-induced "ovalization" of this hole on a fine "hand-play" piano. I'd put as many wippens into a metal gallon paint cans as I could, fill them up and let them soak for a day. Then I'd shake them around and pour the dirty thinner into other cans through a strainer. Starting fluid ( ether ) is also less nasty than 111 trichloroethane. I have used it to blast out centers ( it comes with that groovy little red tube ) and it seems to work quite well. I have some REALLY gooey and moldy Steinway wippens to experiment on, so I'll try a few things and report what seems to work best. G --- Nichols <nicho@zianet.com> wrote: > Well, Dale, as we say here-bouts........ Nada. Zip. > No-ting. > We replace the cloth and the pins, and we haven't > had any problems. Perhaps > our 18% ambient RH helps. Don't know. We've been > rebushing S&S verdigris > parts for six years, although much more in the last > year, and haven't > gotten any feedback about re-infection. In years > past (30ish), I never had > any problem even when I just repinned, so long as I > washed the cloth with > 1,1,1, TCE. Not the friendliest stuff to have > around, but effective and > safe when used carefully. > If you'd like, I'll send you a sample, and you can > try to induce verdigris > in your climate. It would be neat to find out, no? > I agree that using the high quality original, (often > lighter), part is nice > when the geometry is right. I really like whips from > the teens and > twenties. The sandblasting doesn't make them white, > and I would hate to use > bleach, but they look just fine. All new cloth and > skin, burnished jack > tips and balance, etc. > > Again, let me know if you want a sample. I guess > that goes for anyone that > has a serious interest, although I can imagine > Salvador's face when I tell > him we need to do another couple of hundred > freebies! > > Later, > Guy Nichols > > > > > At 11:53 AM 12/27/2005 -0500, you wrote: > > Guy wrote > > Shameless plug on the wippens. If you're not > switching heels or > >turbo-izing, consider having them rebuilt. In a lot > of cases, the weight > >and geometry of the original is good, and we > completely rebuild a whole set > >for about 400 bucks. Sandblasted, all new bushing > felts, heel cloth, > >springs, buttons, etc., etc. Like I said, shameless > plug. > > > > Hi Guy > > Yes but what have you done to neutralize the > green goo,..green > > slime... verti-green fuzzy stuff , ...green > grit....... Steinway curse. > > Ahh ,Yes I've done this to shanks including re > bushing & it comes back > > in less than a year, what a waste of time. And > as for the wippens if > > it comes back then I've spent $400 for what > .......eg-zacctly? > > Guy , In principle I love this idea because > except for the green shluck > > these are perfectly good & expensive Maple parts > were all throwing out. > > Know what I mean? > > Maybe we could figure out a cheap way to just > cut off the birds eye & > > insert a new one with uncontaminated wood & voila > I can use all those > > old parts I've saved for years. > > Tell me more about how you neutralized the green > schtuff. You got my > > attention. again > > Sincerely > > Dale Erwin > __________________________________________ Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less. dsl.yahoo.com
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