Setting strike point

Joseph Alkana josephspiano@comcast.net
Thu, 26 Jan 2006 16:20:30 -0800


For additional information, I recommend Ed McMurrow's "The Educated Piano" 
Supplement member one, which outlines strike point anomalies and 
peculiarities for Steinway and other top makes.
My first try of modifying the hammer line was on a Baldwin around 6' 3". 
Just using my ears and setting many samples, I came up with a kind of "u" 
shaped hammer line, and a very lively top end that was miles better than the 
"straight" factory line produced. I recall that this first time experience 
took about an hour and a half. I used tape on the keybed and dividers to 
measure the amount to move the hammers after marking them with a reference 
line. Oh yes. A fairly tight dry fit will allow you to wet the shank and 
then stick on the hammer for a nice temporary fit while doing the measuring, 
listening.

Some makes will necessitate you check closely for clearance of the hammer 
tail at the soundboard in the high treble. Proper tail shaping and 
lightening of the hammer beforehand will help out a lot. Make sure you have 
fit the dry sample hammer to the strings, too.


Joseph Alkana RPT


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <erwinspiano@aol.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: Setting strike point


>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Graham <grahampianos@yahoo.com
>
>
>
>    hey Greg
>   All good questions & many good answers so far.  I also use the sound or 
> amount of sustain plus the qualiy of  sound of the treble hammers in the 
> shifted position as another guide to optimal hammer placement.  If the 
> tone is thin and whiny accompanied by lackluster power, the hammers need 
> to come forward. Use the description Jon page describes. The area around 
> c-6 is usually the note requiring the furthest excursion towards the keys 
> rsulting in , yes, a horshoe in the hammer line but a much improved sound. 
> Generally this line starts about g-5 and extends to appro. f-6.  This is 
> on Stwys but have seen this anomally on many other makes.
>
>  BTW any piano worthy of a new set of hammers is worth this minor extra 
> process to achieve optimum results. Hey why not?
>   Dale Erwin
>
>
>   Dear jigless grand hammer hangers,
>
> The discussion on hammer hanging jigs last week
> prompted several of you to suggest that a straight
> hammer line is not optimal for sound.  You say each
> hammer (at least the top two or three octaves) could
> or should be set at the strike point that produces the
> best sound.  You are tweaking the placement of many or
> even all hammers, rather than placing C88 and using a
> straightedge to the bottom of the piano.  Someone
> mentioned that this level of attention makes sense for
> very high quality instruments, and I'm interested in
> working toward that end of the quality
> spectrum...eventually.
>
> The question bouncing around in my inexperienced head
> is this:
>
>>From a practical perspective, what methods do you use
> for finding the aurally ideal strike point of
> individual hammers?  How do you manipulate the hammer
> on the shank?
>
> Do you slip the hammer on the shank dry but snug, put
> the action in the piano with the cheek blocks in
> place, then tap the hammer in and out somehow through
> the strings? Pull the action, adjust, replace action,
> repeat?  Will a dry fit hammer handle heavy blows
> without moving?  Are heavy blows required?
>
> Do you glue on the hammer and pop it off again if it
> isn't right?  Will a dry fit hammer sound the same as
> one that is glued?
>
> Do you use paper strip shims between the hammer and
> shank to hold the hammer fast while testing?
>
> Do you do several or even all hammers at the same
> time?
>
> Do you have someone "in the hall" listening, or do you
> go with what you hear from the keyboard?
>
> Does your method take a week, a day, an hour, two
> minutes?
>
> Looking for some how-to.  Thanks.
>
> Greg Graham
> Brodheadsville, PA
>
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