Replacing Steinway hammers

[Ric Brekne]

Hi Horace

The drop screw ends up in the identical position as near as I can tell.  I'll post a couple side by side pictures tonite... old and new shanks with flanges and knuckles.

The jack is 5mm by 5 mm all the way. 50 mm from jack center center to jack top.  Jacks have the jack stop regulating button instead of the little peice of felt in the back of the window of the repetition arm.  I can regulate the jacks back far enough for the new shanks and flanges...but they get uncomfortably close to the rounded part of the window.

Cheers
RicB

Hi, Ric,

Where is the centerpin for the hammer shank relative to the drop screw?  Are
the positions reversed from normal?  Also, what is the profile of the jack
like, especially the 3 - 5mm below the top surface on the knuckle side of
the jack?

Thanks very much.

Best.

Horace


Quoting Ric Brekne <ricbrek at broadpark.no>:

> Appropo replacment of Steinway hammers. Just got a job in on an old O.
> And I run into the problem with hammer shank flanges having the
> centerpin hole a cm longer out again.  Interesting really... the thing
> has (origionally)  realllly light hammers (Stanwood mid to low lights).
> It also has a   6.2 Strike weight ratio, and whippen assist springs.
> Knuckles are 16 mm out from the center and are small diameters.  I have
> a set of new shanks with large knuckles 17(+) mm out from the centers.
> With the new flanges this places the centerpin over 2 mm farther back
> then the origionals.  Essentially, this lowers the ratio both on the
> hammer shank and on the whippen.  Brings it down to 5.3 actually... a
> rather large change.  Origionally with assist springs attached it had a
> 30-32 gram BW,  38 grams without the assists.
>
> Im probably going to just use the origional flanges  to
> compromise and go with a 3/4 medium set of hammers weightwise.  But I am
> curious as to what others would do in the situation.  No new whippens or
> other parts allowed :)
>
> Cheers
> RicB