- All the Action Geometry Buffs

[Farrell]

Indeed. Assuming the sharps are at a functionally good level (don't assume anything), adjust the natural key height so that the tops come out to the proper height. When going from ivory to plastic, wood is typically removed from the top of the key body to maintain original height. When going from plastic to ivory, you may need to laminated a veneer of wood to the keystick. 

Was the keystick planed down for the plastic tops? Sometimes (more often that I like) the #$%& who put the plastic keytops on did not plane the keysticks down to maintain original keytop height.

Keytop height is just like action regulation: Let the piano tell you what is correct.

Terry Farrell
  ----- Original Message ----- 

  The sharps are actually the correct height. You should raise the naturals to the original height then the relationship to the sharps will be okay. You will also need to add punchings to the front rail to keep the dip good. Then regulate as normal.



  Dean May             



  -----Original Message-----




  I recently posted on the subject of replacing white plastic key coverings with some very good one- piece ivory tops which I can salvage from an older  piano.

  Having thought this situation through, it is obvious that the ivory is going to be thinner than the original plastic.  This is going to leave the sharps looking too high.  I will, therefore , have to lower the height of the sharps at the balance rail and in turn alter the depth of touch on the sharps. The sharps and naturals will no longer have their original realtionship.

  My question to you all is, 'Am I getting into deep water with the action geometry by doing this, and am I likely to end up with a peculiar feel in the general touch?'



  ric






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