- All the Action Geometry Buffs

[Joe And Penny Goss]

Hi Stephane,
Yup same here.
One could remove the plastic tops and add a thin wafer of wood to the stick.
Unless it were my piano too much work, and then even if it were my piano,---
The sharps left alone and the naturals raised, will result in the natural being slightly higher at rest and not in a level plane with the sharps. Not very noticable, but I wonder if it would feel different to the player.

Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr at srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Stéphane Collin 
  To: deanmay at pianorebuilders.com ; Pianotech List 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 8:14 AM
  Subject: Re: - All the Action Geometry Buffs


  Hello Dean.

  In my world, plastic melts under the heat resulting from the friction that sawing involves, and becomes a mess.

  Best regards.

  Stéphane Collin.
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Dean May 
    To: Byeway222 at aol.com ; 'Pianotech List' 
    Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 4:00 PM
    Subject: RE: - All the Action Geometry Buffs


    I just had an idea. Why remove the entire top? If they are securely glued, perhaps you could remove only the thickness of your ivory from the plastic. This would leave the final height alone (or very close) and would provide a nice white base for your ivory. 



    One method I have of removing keytops is sawing them on the table saw. I set the fence so that it cuts off the thickness of the new top. This of course removes the desired amount of wood at the same time. One could just as easily set the fence so that it only cuts the thickness of your ivory. In your case this would not remove all of the plastic. I suspect you would have to use a pretty fine tooth blade to keep from chipping out the plastic. 



    You could also use a router table set up with a jig that securely holds the key upside down using a spiral bit. 



    Dean

    Dean May             cell 812.239.3359

    PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272

    Terre Haute IN  47802



    -----Original Message-----
    From: Byeway222 at aol.com [mailto:Byeway222 at aol.com] 
    Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:06 AM
    To: deanmay at pianorebuilders.com
    Subject: Re: - All the Action Geometry Buffs



    Thanks for the quick replies to my posting. This piano is only 12 years old and has the factory original keytops, so no material has been taken from the key wood.

    Points raised so far are very interesting. Raising the naturals, for some reason, was not my immediate thought.  Yes, what about the ivory widths etc.  I still have to to check out fine details like this when I see the piano again.  It is about 120 miles away at present, but I am trying to get all my possibilities sorted before I take delivery in 3 weeks. I need to say, that this is a piano I have bought for myself and that is why I feel more indulgent about it than I would normally!



    Ed Sutton asks what experience I have with ivory tops.  I have really only done recovering/matching middle sections of old keyboards and had some success with bleaching a couple of whole sets using the peroxide and black flourescent light method.  If the ivory width works out (length of head is ok) I will certainly welcome advice on preparation and adheisive for this job.  So please keep the advice flowing.



    ric
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