After thoroughly cleaning a player piano action
( including "ThumperizingTM the wippens ) and
replacing all the replaceable parts, it still had a
mouse-pee smell. So I put all the action parts in a
plastic storage bin with an "XT-2000 Blaster", and ran
it through several cycles, over several days. Took the
stink out nicely!
I also put a new Pianotech balance-rail pin in
there, to see how it might affect nickel plating.
Nothing.
I am quite pleased.
See "Air-Zone" website, if you want one of these for
yopurself.
--- Joe And Penny Goss <imatunr at srvinet.com> wrote:
> Yes, you are correct,way too mush bother.
>
> Joe Goss RPT
> Mother Goose Tools
> imatunr at srvinet.com
> www.mothergoosetools.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: William Benjamin
> To: 'Pianotech List'
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:56 AM
> Subject: RE: - All the Action Geometry Buffs
>
>
> If you put in a thin wafer, wouldn't one have to
> replace the fronts or something so it wouldn't show?
>
>
>
>
>
> Just a thought,
>
>
>
> William
>
>
>
> PIANO BOUTIQUE
>
> William Benjamin
>
> Piano Tuner Extraordinaire
>
> www.pianoboutique.biz
>
> The tuner alone,
>
> preserves the tone.
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Joe
> And Penny Goss
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 11:09 AM
> To: Pianotech List
> Subject: Re: - All the Action Geometry Buffs
>
>
>
> Hi Stephane,
>
> Yup same here.
>
> One could remove the plastic tops and add a thin
> wafer of wood to the stick.
>
> Unless it were my piano too much work, and then
> even if it were my piano,---
>
> The sharps left alone and the naturals raised,
> will result in the natural being slightly higher at
> rest and not in a level plane with the sharps. Not
> very noticable, but I wonder if it would feel
> different to the player.
>
>
>
> Joe Goss RPT
> Mother Goose Tools
> imatunr at srvinet.com
> www.mothergoosetools.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Stéphane Collin
>
> To: deanmay at pianorebuilders.com ; Pianotech List
>
>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 8:14 AM
>
> Subject: Re: - All the Action Geometry Buffs
>
>
>
> Hello Dean.
>
>
>
> In my world, plastic melts under the heat
> resulting from the friction that sawing involves,
> and becomes a mess.
>
>
>
> Best regards.
>
>
>
> Stéphane Collin.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Dean May
>
> To: Byeway222 at aol.com ; 'Pianotech List'
>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 4:00 PM
>
> Subject: RE: - All the Action Geometry Buffs
>
>
>
> I just had an idea. Why remove the entire top?
> If they are securely glued, perhaps you could remove
> only the thickness of your ivory from the plastic.
> This would leave the final height alone (or very
> close) and would provide a nice white base for your
> ivory.
>
>
>
> One method I have of removing keytops is
> sawing them on the table saw. I set the fence so
> that it cuts off the thickness of the new top. This
> of course removes the desired amount of wood at the
> same time. One could just as easily set the fence so
> that it only cuts the thickness of your ivory. In
> your case this would not remove all of the plastic.
> I suspect you would have to use a pretty fine tooth
> blade to keep from chipping out the plastic.
>
>
>
> You could also use a router table set up with
> a jig that securely holds the key upside down using
> a spiral bit.
>
>
>
> Dean
>
> Dean May cell 812.239.3359
>
> PianoRebuilders.com 812.235.5272
>
> Terre Haute IN 47802
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Byeway222 at aol.com
> [mailto:Byeway222 at aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:06 AM
> To: deanmay at pianorebuilders.com
> Subject: Re: - All the Action Geometry Buffs
>
>
>
> Thanks for the quick replies to my posting.
> This piano is only 12 years old and has the factory
> original keytops, so no material has been taken from
> the key wood.
>
> Points raised so far are very interesting.
> Raising the naturals, for some reason, was not my
> immediate thought. Yes, what about the ivory widths
> etc. I still have to to check out fine details like
> this when I see the piano again. It is about 120
> miles away at present, but I am trying to get all my
> possibilities sorted before I take delivery in 3
> weeks. I need to say, that this is a piano I have
> bought for myself and that is why I feel more
> indulgent about it than I would normally!
>
>
>
> Ed Sutton asks what experience I have with
> ivory tops. I have really only done
> recovering/matching middle sections of old keyboards
> and had some success with bleaching a couple of
> whole sets using the peroxide and black flourescent
> light method. If the ivory width works out (length
> of head is ok) I will certainly welcome advice on
> preparation and adheisive for this job. So please
> keep the advice flowing.
>
>
>
> ric
>
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