Spinet Hammer Butt Springs

[John Ross]

I have found that drilling an extra hole in the slot, and threading the end 
of the wire into it, and snugging up, really helps secure the wire in the 
slot.
Trying to just bend, and push it into the slot, doesn't work as well.
John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Driscoll" <tomtuner at verizon.net>
To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: Spinet Hammer Butt Springs


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Alan McCoy" <ahm at webband.com>
> To: <joegarrett at earthlink.net>; "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 3:09 AM
> Subject: RE: Spinet Hammer Butt Springs
>
>
>> Yes, leave the action in. One good trick for this job is to use a couple
>> rods (each about 26-28 inches long with a small handle on one end) to 
>> hold
>> the springs onto the rail. You thread the rod through each spring coil as
>> you attach each spring on the rail.
>>
>> Alan
>>
> Alan,
>    Good suggestion.
> I've used a section of a heavy wire coat hanger doing one section at a 
> time. Put the tails of the new springs through the holes in the 
> rail.Thread the rod through the coils of the springs and clamp the rod to 
> the rail with small spring clamps. This snugs the coils into the notch in 
> the rail and keeps them aligned until the tails are wedged into the slots 
> in the rail.The job goes quickly doing a section at a time.
>    It's of course important to get the  remnants of the old springs out of 
> the rail.
>    When finished replace the spring rail felt and install .
>    One more suggestion--- I've replaced the wood screws (which are a pain 
> to get in and out-especially if the action is in the piano) with machine 
> screws, washer,lock washer and nuts. Drill the hole through the rail and 
> pick a screw that will pass through the action bracket and rail 
> freely.Remember to replace any shims(front rail cardboard punchings 
> usually) that were there before the rail came out.
>    I think Joe G. recommended using a piece of weld rod  to hold the 
> springs in place and I'll be trying that method on the next one----
>    Tom Driscoll RPT
>