Work Bench finishes

[Joel A. Jones]

Joe,

Fantastic advice.  My options were
oak or maple, so this helps my choice.

I had a solid maple top that I brushed poly
on.  It held for several years in an office, but
when I put it in the shop the poly pealed off
like skin from an onion.

Tung Oil seems like the one.   Thanks Joe,

Joe
Joel Jones, RPT
Madison, WIl
On Nov 26, 2006, at 9:12 PM, Joseph Garrett wrote:

>
> Joel,
> It really depends on the material of the bench top. My main bench, 
> which is
> in the center of the the work area for 360 degree access, is made of 
> Maple.
> The finish I use is Tong Oil. Reason? Because it is easy to rejuvenate 
> and
> glues do not bond to it. About once a year, I clear all the "stuff" 
> off of
> the bench and get busy with soap and water giving it a good scrub.
> Depending how bad it is, I'll sometimes use a "Kurly Kate", (steel
> scrubber). This will get all the "gook" off. Then I dry it and sand 
> lightly
> with a long sanding block, (12" plus). This makes sure it's FLAT. Then 
> I
> let it set over night to thoroughly dry. Next day, I get out the Tong 
> Oil
> and swab it down with a medium coating. Let set for most of the day. 
> Add
> some to the areas that appear "dry". Remove the "puddles". Let set over
> night. Final rub down to get the excess off. It's now ready for  
> another
> year's abuse, etc.
> If you're using "masonite" or something similar,I'd suggest Varnish,
> (Marine Grade). After it's dry, buff it with 4/0 steel wool.
> Regards,
>
> Joseph Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain, Tool Police
> Squares R I
>
>