OK, then. It would seem to me (as a not-too familiar with Stanwood's protocols as of yet) that you would need to look at both the distance parameters, and after that is determined to be in an acceptable range, then look at the SW-FW parameters to reach the optimum performance. In the B mentioned some time ago, I had to reduce the dip to about 3/8", and increase the blow to just above the cushions to get a minimal, but still adequate aftertouch. This reduced the heavy, unmanageable feel of the action. It is still a little heavy, but feels much more responsive. So, I would guess that the distance ratios were wrong to start with, because there were excessive leads in there from the beginning. And things got worse when the parts were replaced, as more leads (that were not factory in appearance) were added at that time. So both distance and SW/FW parameters were compromised, Right? I wish that I had taken measurements at the time. We found someone who liked it, and subsequently bought it. I saw in the PTG Leader Letter that a Stanwood class was going to be held at the Home Office in the spring. I guess this would be a good place to start, eh? Clark A. Sprague, RPT ----- Original Message ----- From: <A440A at aol.com> To: <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 9:20 PM Subject: Re: measuring ratios/ popsicle puzzle >I wrote: > >> a 6 mm block attached to a weighted length of 2X2 on the > top of the key, and a dial caliper to measure how much the hammer rises. > << > and >>>progressively using two 3 > mm blocks, will tell me if an action has a higher ratio at the beginning > of a hammerstroke (bad progression), or if the beginning ratio is lower > than > the final, (good progression). << > > Dale writes: > << The use of smaller than a 6 mm block takes us in the direction of > action acceleration. >> > > Exactly. I have found that an action in which the ratio increases as the > hammer travels feels better. I call this "rising rate geometry".
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