finishing bench top

Mike Spalding mike.spalding1 at verizon.net
Thu Nov 30 08:03:36 MST 2006


William,

I don't recall that Joel said it was old.  I recently made a computer 
desk out of a new oak door - even though it was a "solid" door, the 
surface was a thin layer of rotary cut red oak veneer, with the 
density/integrity of the finest luan (sarcasm intended).  Perhaps I 
could have simplified the process by using a paste pore filler, but it 
seemed to me to be worth the extra time to get the urethane sealer in 
and around all those fibers.  Depends, I suppose, on the quality of the 
oak surface.  As many have pointed out, maple makes a better benchtop.

Mike


William R. Monroe wrote:
> Mike,
>
> If you want to fill the pores, why not use a pore filler and be done 
> with it?  Then a couple three coats of poly.  I wouldn't think, 
> though, on an old door that you would really have much trouble with 
> splinters.
>
> Also, do you really think it is necessary to deal with the porosity of 
> the oak?  Do you think this kind of open pore wood lends itself to 
> splintering, therefore, fill the pores, and build up a thick coat to 
> prevent that?
>
> I ask because I'm curious what your thoughts are.  I've not had this 
> experience with oak, but haven't used it for a workbench, either.
>
> Best,
> William R. Monroe
>
>
>> Joel,
>>
>> With an oak door I expect you've got some very open grain.  For that, 
>> I would use polyurethane, and begin with several coats of sealer, 
>> thoroughly sanded, until the grain is filled and the surface is 
>> smooth.  Then a couple finish coats of gloss, which is harder than 
>> either sealer or satin finish.  Anything less, and you'll be dealing 
>> with lots of  splinters and surface defects.
>>
>> Mike 
>
>
>



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