William, I don't recall that Joel said it was old. I recently made a computer desk out of a new oak door - even though it was a "solid" door, the surface was a thin layer of rotary cut red oak veneer, with the density/integrity of the finest luan (sarcasm intended). Perhaps I could have simplified the process by using a paste pore filler, but it seemed to me to be worth the extra time to get the urethane sealer in and around all those fibers. Depends, I suppose, on the quality of the oak surface. As many have pointed out, maple makes a better benchtop. Mike William R. Monroe wrote: > Mike, > > If you want to fill the pores, why not use a pore filler and be done > with it? Then a couple three coats of poly. I wouldn't think, > though, on an old door that you would really have much trouble with > splinters. > > Also, do you really think it is necessary to deal with the porosity of > the oak? Do you think this kind of open pore wood lends itself to > splintering, therefore, fill the pores, and build up a thick coat to > prevent that? > > I ask because I'm curious what your thoughts are. I've not had this > experience with oak, but haven't used it for a workbench, either. > > Best, > William R. Monroe > > >> Joel, >> >> With an oak door I expect you've got some very open grain. For that, >> I would use polyurethane, and begin with several coats of sealer, >> thoroughly sanded, until the grain is filled and the surface is >> smooth. Then a couple finish coats of gloss, which is harder than >> either sealer or satin finish. Anything less, and you'll be dealing >> with lots of splinters and surface defects. >> >> Mike > > >
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