More general glue questions was Glue for cracked rib?

[Alan R. Barnard]

----- This is a forwarded message ----------------------------------------
From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u at earthlink.net>
To: ed440 at mindspring.com, pianotech at ptg.org
Received: 10/30/2006 12:35:29 PM
Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for cracked rib?


Are there reasons for not using yellow glue, here? (Titebond, Carpenters, etc.)

And while I'm asking questions out of ignorance: When you need to fill a gap, what about using panel adhesive--the stuff that looks like peanut butter?

Alan Barnard
Salem, MO
Joshua 24:15



----- Original message ----------------------------------------
From: ed440 at mindspring.com
To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Received: 10/30/2006 12:19:53 PM
Subject: Re: Glue for cracked rib?


>Gordon-

>When you say "cracked" I'm assuming you mean "separated," not "split."

>Cold hide glue is usually the restorer's choice in a situation like this. It will soften and 
>combine with any hide glue that is in the joint.  Hide glue is not gap-filling.  (I just 
>came from a great talk by Eugene Thorndahl, who has spent 50 years as a hide glue 
>chemist. He said the gap-filling properties of hide glue are an Internet myth.  
><www.bjorn.net>  He may be the only source of genuine graded hide glues for 
>instrument and restoration work.)

>For a fast repair, consider CE (Cyano-epoxy aka Tech-Bond).  It has the shear and 
>shock resistance that CA sadly lacks, and sets a bit slower.  Jim Coleman, Jr. and a 
>few other specialty distributors sell it.

>In either case you may want to drill a hole for access to the joint and inject the glue 
>right into the center of the problem.

>Ed Sutton