Removing key fronts

[John Ross]

The hydrogen peroxide has to be the 30% stuff, not the 3% commonly available 
stuff.
Also it should be used in conjunction with sunlight.
John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nereson" <dnereson at 4dv.net>
To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 2:20 AM
Subject: RE: Removing key fronts


>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org]On
> Behalf Of John Delacour
> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 12:49 AM
> To: Pianotech List
> Subject: Re: Removing key fronts
> . . . . . . . .
>
> If the keyboard is to be scrapped but you want the ivory, the
> quickest way to get it, provided traditional glue has been used, is
> to dump the keys on a large bucket of cold water for a day, as I did
> last week with a couple of sets.
>
> JD
> I've done that a couple times, and it works, but if you then just leave
> the ivories on newspaper or paper towels to dry, they will curl, since the
> underside is against the wet paper and stays humid, while the top is open
> to the air and dries faster, unless you sit there all day and keep turning
> them over, so they get equal exposure on both sides.  I've clamped them in
> little stacks between wood or metal blocks, and just left them for a few
> days, and that worked better, but some still had a bit of a curl to them.
> Just yesterday, I removed a set with the wet cloth and hot iron method,
> and even though the top side must get way more steam than the underside,
> for some reason they don't curl.
> I've tried soaking very yellow ones in hydrogen peroxide to whiten them
> up, and that worked pretty well, but required several prolonged soakings.
> So the next time, to speed it up, I tried Clorox, and that was too much -
> they came out over-bleached and chalky.  But maybe if it were diluted
> enough . . .(?)
> --David Nereson, RPT
>
>
>