Thanks for the comments on the upright pinblock building. I'll let you know how it goes maybe next week. Bob Hull --- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > Bob Hull > > Another idea came me about making up the thickness > for > > the back of the block: What about using part of > the > > old block back? > > Sure - as long as its integrity is good. Good > thinking! > > > I am going to remove it by drilling > > out just in front of the glue joint and then > > chiseling, planing, steaming out the remainder. I > > could plane down the old one and band saw it to an > > approx. thickness then run it through the > thickness > > planer. I wonder if it would be too hard for my > > bandsaw (Delta 14") or if the aged wood would be > too > > different from the newer block material that I > would > > add to it? > > The old maple (or whatever) should cut similar to > new maple. I'm quite sure your saw, properly set up > with a proper blade, would cut a block just fine. > > > Would you use epoxy or titebond? > > Epoxy. But that's coming from "The Epoxy Man" and he > is biased. > > Really, it depends on the quality of the glue joint. > If the glue surfaces can be shaped to all meet nice > a flush, then Titebond should work just fine. If you > find it is difficult (or you just don't want to > bother) to make perfectly aligning glue joints, then > epoxy is definitely the way to go. For an important > structural joint like this I recommend using West > System epoxy (or an equivalent) thickened with their > 404 High-Density filler and utilizing their > two-step bonding method http://www.westsystem.com/ > (click on "Using West System Epoxy" and scroll > down). > > Hope this helps. > > Terry Farrell > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ The fish are biting. Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php
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