Chickering console

Ron Nossaman rnossaman at cox.net
Mon Jul 16 21:59:43 MDT 2007


> Here's an interesting problem:  a 1958-59 Chickering console presented 
> with a non-functioning sustain pedal.  Upon opening the piano, I noticed 
> the right-hand side of the action would rise when the pedal was 
> pressed.  Removing the action revealed that the sticker/action rail was 
> split, probably for about 10 inches, and probably (according to the 
> church's choir director) from too-aggressive pedalling.
>  
> Without removing dampers/wippens for better access, I think I can inject 
> (very carefully, to avoid squeeze-out!) into the length of the split, 
> use a c-clamp around the top of the rail and the wippen flanges (again, 
> very carefully, to close the split without putting too much pressure on, 
> and perhaps using a paint stick or some such between the clamp and the 
> wippen flanges to distribute the pressure), then use a 4x3/4 screw in 
> the available right end, to mechanically close the split, along with the 
> glue.  I wish there were room to put in another screw. . .
>  
> Without removing parts, which I don't really want to do, and which would 
> turn it into a bigger job than the church will be willing to contemplate 
> (or am I being foolish?), this is all I can come up with.  The choir 
> director is really interested in buying a grand for the sanctuary, so is 
> not really interested in spending much.  Otherwise this piano is in 
> really good condition, and seems like a pretty decent specimen.
>  
> So, what do you think?  Will this be an effective repair?  Should I just 
> bite the bullet and take some parts off for better access?  What would 
> be the prognosis for any kind of repair for this problem? 
>  
> I'm thinking of charging for a 3-4 hour job, including today's visit.
>  
> Thanks for your advice.
>  
> Richard Morgan

I ran into something like this a few years ago. Got some 
Titebond into the split joint, clamped the rail together, and 
drilled down through it for a long sheetrock screw in the bass 
end. It worked well enough, and I didn't have to take action 
parts off, though I did pull the action. It wouldn't work on 
everything out there, but it's worth a look.
Ron N


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