Steinway action noise

[Greg Newell]

David,
	How would the pinning affect the jack clicking against the hammer
flange?

Best wishes,
Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of David Ilvedson
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 1:42 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: RE: Steinway action noise

Make sure it isn't just the pinning...

David Ilvedson, RPT
Pacifica, CA  94044

----- Original message ----------------------------------------
From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell at ameritech.net>
To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Received: 11/14/2007 10:03:31 AM
Subject: Steinway action noise


>Greetings list members. 
>I have an action in the shop from an old "A" which was recently redone by
>someone other than me. The school didn't like my original quote and did
>something cheaper. Now they want me to fix the rather pronounced click and
>heavy feel when keys are played. I admit to being a bit puzzled by this
one.
>The problem is that the jack tip on a forte blow contacts the underside of
>the hammer flange producing the click. The new wippens, hammer shanks,
>flanges and hammers are Steinway's. The Renner Parts Kit yield no help. I'm
>wondering if the rails are soldered in wrong. I've measured the distance
>between the hammer rail and the wippen rail on this "A" and on a much newer
>"L" I have in the shop which, incidently, is from the Teflon era. The "L"
>rails are 129.5mm apart (on center) and the "A" rails are 128mm. The action
>spread for the "L" is 111mm and the "A" is 110mm. Neither action is
anywhere
>near in compliance with the magic line theory. Just so I understand it's
>base of key at balance rail pin to wippen flange center pin and the capstan
>should cross that line during half key travel and the other being wippen
>flange center pin to hammer flange center pin and the base of the knuckle
>should cross the line at half key travel. Sure hope I'm wrong here since
>neither of the actions is even close. There are also double felts on the
>keystick ends for damper lift if that is any kind of a clue to someone.
Also
>new white keytops were installed but the keystick was not milled down to
>accommodate the new thicker plastics. I have some budget with which to work
>this out but I can't go too nuts. I'm hoping to retain the new (old) parts
>since much of their money will need to be spent on my time. Any ideas?

>All the best,
>Greg Newell