Steinway action noise

David Doremus algiers_piano at bellsouth.net
Wed Nov 14 19:59:35 MST 2007


I actually have the identical clicking problem, but without the weight. 
I am suspecting an incorrect mix of parts. I temporarily improved it by 
reducing aftertouch to a point that I did not like. I'm going back with 
a parts selection and see how things go from there. Meanwhile if you 
find an answer send it out!

--Dave
  New Orleans

Marcel Carey wrote:
> Hi Greg,
>
> I've seen this before. Could you check the distance between the knuckle and the hammer-flange center pin. If the knuckle was closer to the pin than the original part, this could give you a weight problem AND it could get the jack way too close to the flange in order to get aftertouch. Also, a simple solution for the click is to add some thickness to the felt in the wippen's window (jack stopper felt).
>
> Keep us informed of the solution you'll use.
>
> Marcel Carey, RPT
> Sherbrooke, QC
> ----------------------------------------
>   
>> From: gnewell at ameritech.net
>> To: pianotech at ptg.org
>> Subject: Steinway action noise
>> Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 13:03:31 -0500
>>
>> Greetings list members. 
>> I have an action in the shop from an old "A" which was recently redone by
>> someone other than me. The school didn't like my original quote and did
>> something cheaper. Now they want me to fix the rather pronounced click and
>> heavy feel when keys are played. I admit to being a bit puzzled by this one.
>> The problem is that the jack tip on a forte blow contacts the underside of
>> the hammer flange producing the click. The new wippens, hammer shanks,
>> flanges and hammers are Steinway's. The Renner Parts Kit yield no help. I'm
>> wondering if the rails are soldered in wrong. I've measured the distance
>> between the hammer rail and the wippen rail on this "A" and on a much newer
>> "L" I have in the shop which, incidently, is from the Teflon era. The "L"
>> rails are 129.5mm apart (on center) and the "A" rails are 128mm. The action
>> spread for the "L" is 111mm and the "A" is 110mm. Neither action is anywhere
>> near in compliance with the magic line theory. Just so I understand it's
>> base of key at balance rail pin to wippen flange center pin and the capstan
>> should cross that line during half key travel and the other being wippen
>> flange center pin to hammer flange center pin and the base of the knuckle
>> should cross the line at half key travel. Sure hope I'm wrong here since
>> neither of the actions is even close. There are also double felts on the
>> keystick ends for damper lift if that is any kind of a clue to someone. Also
>> new white keytops were installed but the keystick was not milled down to
>> accommodate the new thicker plastics. I have some budget with which to work
>> this out but I can't go too nuts. I'm hoping to retain the new (old) parts
>> since much of their money will need to be spent on my time. Any ideas?
>>
>> All the best,
>> Greg Newell
>>
>>     
>
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