Steinway action noise

[Greg Newell]

Marcel,
	I will check this in the morning. I actually did measure them and
compare against the pieces in the Renner parts kit but they were within
range. I've forgotten the numbers but remember these are Steinway parts. I
wouldn't expect to get something too far out here. There is a chance that a
thicker stop felt would eliminate the click but wouldn't I be burying the
jack into that felt asking for jack failure anyway?

Best wishes,
Greg Newell


-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Marcel Carey
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:49 PM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: RE: Steinway action noise


Hi Greg,

I've seen this before. Could you check the distance between the knuckle and
the hammer-flange center pin. If the knuckle was closer to the pin than the
original part, this could give you a weight problem AND it could get the
jack way too close to the flange in order to get aftertouch. Also, a simple
solution for the click is to add some thickness to the felt in the wippen's
window (jack stopper felt).

Keep us informed of the solution you'll use.

Marcel Carey, RPT
Sherbrooke, QC
----------------------------------------
> From: gnewell at ameritech.net
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Subject: Steinway action noise
> Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 13:03:31 -0500
> 
> Greetings list members. 
> I have an action in the shop from an old "A" which was recently redone by
> someone other than me. The school didn't like my original quote and did
> something cheaper. Now they want me to fix the rather pronounced click and
> heavy feel when keys are played. I admit to being a bit puzzled by this
one.
> The problem is that the jack tip on a forte blow contacts the underside of
> the hammer flange producing the click. The new wippens, hammer shanks,
> flanges and hammers are Steinway's. The Renner Parts Kit yield no help.
I'm
> wondering if the rails are soldered in wrong. I've measured the distance
> between the hammer rail and the wippen rail on this "A" and on a much
newer
> "L" I have in the shop which, incidently, is from the Teflon era. The "L"
> rails are 129.5mm apart (on center) and the "A" rails are 128mm. The
action
> spread for the "L" is 111mm and the "A" is 110mm. Neither action is
anywhere
> near in compliance with the magic line theory. Just so I understand it's
> base of key at balance rail pin to wippen flange center pin and the
capstan
> should cross that line during half key travel and the other being wippen
> flange center pin to hammer flange center pin and the base of the knuckle
> should cross the line at half key travel. Sure hope I'm wrong here since
> neither of the actions is even close. There are also double felts on the
> keystick ends for damper lift if that is any kind of a clue to someone.
Also
> new white keytops were installed but the keystick was not milled down to
> accommodate the new thicker plastics. I have some budget with which to
work
> this out but I can't go too nuts. I'm hoping to retain the new (old) parts
> since much of their money will need to be spent on my time. Any ideas?
> 
> All the best,
> Greg Newell
> 

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