The acceptable minimal approach is to replace with the leads the same size. Weigh a couple to see if they are in the same ballpark weight and then just wholesale it: 2-4 hours depending on how easily they come out and how many split keys you have to repair plus cost of leads, pick up and delivery, etc.. Yamaha leads are usually bigger (not your standard 1/2" leads) but if it's not a grey market you can get replacement leads from Yamaha. The next least cost approach would be to duplicate the front weights. Next would be to weigh off the action (up and down weights) and calculate the change in front weight per key to bring in a uniform balance weight then change the leads accordingly. After that would be create a smooth strike weight and then do the weigh off. In this case I would get replacement leads from Yamaha and simply duplicate what's there. Since it's for the Elk's, tell them it might cost a few bucks. David Love davidlovepianos at comcast.net www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 1:08 pm Subject: Key Lead Replacement Looked at a 30 yo (guess) Yamaha G2 grand today with keys sticking. It has growing key leads. Never seen that on a Yamaha before. Grinding marks on many of the keys indicate that the leads were ground down previously. I'm recommending that they replace all key leads. I've leaded keys as part of setting up an action. But I've never just blindly replaced the leads, trying to duplicate the original setup. I know that the owners definitely want to go minimal cost with this one (Elk's Lodge). Seems to me leads are often of slightly different sizes, lengths, etc. If you are not carefully measuring Front Weights, etc., what the heck do you do? Seems to me the fastest way would be to pop the old lead out, weigh it, grab a lead of the same diameter, trim it to the original weight and install. Or is that just too trashy an approach? Do I tell them that we need to do a traditional weigh-off (but we can't because action center friction hasn't been addressed, etc.)? Evaluate the original FW curve and duplicate it (but that will mean some plugging, etc., i.e. more cost)? What is an acceptable, minimal approach? Thanks. Terry Farrell Farrell Piano www.farrellpiano.com terry at farrellpiano.com More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail!
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