On 10/18/07, Jon Page <jonpage at comcast.net> wrote: > > If you guys want to sit around while heat warms the glue be my guest. > I have better things to do. Read the post again, I'm not rotating the > hammer > on the shank as in burning-in. The hammers have to be rehung at 90 degrees > to the shank because they are pitched back a few degrees causing them > to understrike. > > I want to remove the hammers from the shanks in the most expedient manner. > I'll need to use a tapered reamer to enlarge the hole so as to alter > the bore angle > and reattach with Bolduc glue. > -- > > Regards, > > Jon Page > Hi Jon, There's no sitting around to it, a few seconds per few hammers since a heat gun will heat 2 or 3 at a time and you can hold the gun with one hand, hopefully you've already clamped all the shanks, so all you have to do is pull the hammers off, one by one with the other hand. When you're done you can ream them, remove the old glue from the shanks and you're all set to go. You don't even have to remove the shanks and flanges from the stack, which I'm guessing you had to do if you're pounding them off with a mallet! Alternately put them under a "brooder lamp" one of those clamp on jobs with the aluminum reflector for a minute or so then slide them out the other side and pull them off, a few at a time allowing new ones to be heated/softened. I use that method for keytop removal. Either method is a lot easier on the hammers, shanks and flange joints. Good Luck, Mike -- Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein Michael Magness Magness Piano Service 608-786-4404 www.IFixPianos.com email mike at ifixpianos.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20071018/2807375e/attachment.html
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