Not that I know of, but Titebond does sell a slower cure glue. It's not as thick as the trim glue but if you dig a well in the end grain of scrap block of wood and use that for your glue reservoir, it will suck some of the moisture out of it and thicken it up a bit. Whether you will lose the slow cure properties that way, I don't know. David Love davidlovepianos at comcast.net www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Ilvedson Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 3:33 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: RE: Hot Hide Glue Problem My hammer hanging isn't the fastest and I found the trim glue to set up just a wee bit fast for me...can it be slowed down like hide glue? David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> Received: 10/26/2007 9:57:35 AM Subject: RE: Hot Hide Glue Problem >It takes a good 30 minutes or more for the glue to fully dissolve. Don't >get hung up on premeasured proportions, when the crystals are totally >dissolved add water as necessary to get it to a room temperature honey >consistency (depending on what you are using it for). It will take a full >day at least for it to set up hard. The more water, the more it will >shrink. I wouldn't worry about too long unless you are leaving it in the >pot for a day or more. To slow down the set up time at some urea (you don't >need very much). Or, just use titebond. Their trim glue is the right >consistency for a lot of applications, especially hammers. > >David Love >davidlovepianos at comcast.net >www.davidlovepianos.com >-----Original Message----- >From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf >Of paul bruesch >Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 8:31 AM >To: Pianotech List >Subject: Re: Hot Hide Glue Problem > >It was in the church music room (choir rehearsal, etc.) I just thought I'd >do it right, since I've seen so many castigations about using Titebond where >not appropriate, although in my case Titebond is what I wound up using after >scraping off the goo. >How long should it be heated before using?? What's "too long?" Previously >(and this time) I've used it almost right away after it's soupy. >Thanks, >Paul Bruesch >Stillwater, MN >On 10/26/07, Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> wrote: >> I mixed up some hot hide glue yesterday. The crystals were from a >> package (my first/only) which I've had for about six months. I have >> successfully mixed glue from it in the past, but yesterday it never set >> up hard. It dried about the consistency of rubber cement (but nowhere >> nearly as sticky!) Every time I've mixed it before I've just made a WAG >> at quantities (cover dry crystals with water, per someone on this list) >> and stuck it in my hot water pot, set at 140F. >> >> I cleaned it all out and tried it again tonight, but this time I weighed >> out 1oz crystals and slightly under 2oz H2O (per recipe on the 'net). >> Same result. Very gummy, tho' I don't chew gum and don't think this >> stuff'll make me want to start!! >> >> Any idea what could possibly be going wrong?? >> >> Thanks, >> Paul Bruesch >> Stillwater, MN >You mentioned tuning the piano. Shop, or elsewhere? If >elsewhere, why hot hide? Mixed fairly thick, it does gel to a >not terribly sticky rubber cement consistency fairly quickly, >and takes at least overnight to dry hard. That's what it does, >and that quick gel is one of the primary reasons for using it. >What did yours look like the next day? >I have had hide glue not gel properly in two situations. When >it hadn't been heated long enough after mixing, and when it >had been in use and cooking in the pot for too long. >Ron N >
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