Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks

[Jon Page]

>I would love to read procedures for nailing this left, right, tight 
>at both ends fit. It is, after all one that can be seen by every one.

Before removing the plate, I drill two holes (~5/64")  in the treble 
and two in the bass to
make  a pattern of the block perimeter.  Fit a large piece of paper 
into the corner  and cut
for any angle between the stretcher and side. Punch index holes.

Once the new, oversize block is fitted and screws installed, drill 
thru the index holes into the new block, remove block and index 
pattern off the holes. Draw the corner on each end
and connect the ends with a straightedge. This duplicates the exact 
dimensions of the old block. Cut out pencil line for the sides on a 
band saw, leave some pencil line on the front
and dress on a joiner.   Side-to-side fine fitting is done with a 
file or belt sander.

Since the bass end only has a small area I want the bottom of the 
block to have full contact.
To get the block in and out easily during fitting, sand away material 
from the top end on the bass and the bottom end on the treble; a 
parallelogram shape.

This will produce a fit with no sideways play.  If the bearing is OK, 
the block is glued
on the three sides, then plate is then installed and the block 
screwed in place. Clamps
press the assembly until the glue cures.  Then remove plate and 
install screws at each
end into the inner rim.

I don't dowel into the stretcher, just leave the glue hold it. What 
good are a few small dowels anyway.

Regards,

Jon Page
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